Friday, May 27, 2022

May 27, 2022 - The truth shall set you free.

Still trying to avoid crowds, I left for the small and less popular area of Gorge du Houx Parjure this morning. Not feeling in my best shape, I had no intention to climb anything that would soon feel too hard or like too much work. A dyno to warm up, "Lance à Droite" was something that I wanted to try first. Flashing it with ease, I figured that what I had done was too soft for the grade, so it was probable that the start was with both hands left on the flat oblique ledge. The start in the video just below is probably more like 6C at most. An ideal warm up.

Fontainebleau - Gorge du Houx Parjure - Lance à Droite (direct) 6C



Starting with both hands left required a few tries to fine tune the dyno and is most likely the proposed 7A grade.

Fontainebleau - Gorge du Houx Parjure - Lance à Droite 7A



A bit more uphill, in a small cave, I finally got the point of actually trying "Black or White", but as one of the key holds was wet, I was forced to let go of it.
Further along the blue path, I stopped at "Karmoi" and did it fairly quickly. I have to admit that the very slopey topout was quite a struggle though.

Fontainebleau - Gorge du Houx Parjure - Karmoi 7A



The sitstart of "Karmoi", adds some nice moves, definitely worth the additional half grade. The struggle at the topout was harder than when I did the standing start moments ago.

Fontainebleau - Gorge du Houx Parjure - Karmoi (assis) 7A+



Those wondering about the title, apparently 'parjure' is a French word for lying under oath.

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