Wednesday, July 17, 2019

July 17, 2019 - Some new stuff.

Being in holiday, I had time to climb and set off to the Ouest of the Mont Blanc area behind Éléphant.
I went with the idea of trying the new "Slippery Joe" at about 200m to the Ouest of the main Mont Blanc area.
Unfortunately, "Slippery Joe" wasn't really what I expected and still suffering from pain on my fairy tail, I didn't feel like trying something that didn't fit my style.
Strangely enough, I hadn't thought of a backup plan, but I hard my hard brush with me, and as there were quite some more bigger and smaller boulders in the immediate vicinity, I decided to have a look around and see if something would be worth brushing.
On the way, at about 30m to the East of "Slippery Joe", I had passed a boulder that had drawn my attention, so it was a good place to start.

I had already visited this small unknown sector with Neil (Hart) about six years ago, even before the Mont Blanc area was made public, so many of the boulders around had already been cleaned before six years ago and then again forgotten about. The boulder I cleaned could be one of them, but time at least had taken its toll and I can assure you that I had to clean off a lot.

"Rasta Coquette" is the right line and "Rasta Roquette" the left.

Did four problems on the same piece of the boulder, but unfortunately only two videos.

"Rasta Coquette", the right line on the picture, is about 6C(6B+) depending on your height.
Standing start with both hands on low small undercut crimps and exit directly or slightly left, using two big oblique slopey crimps.
I didn't bother making a video of the standstart, as I did the sitstart soon after. The sitstart start with two hand on the same two small undercut crimps, but getting off the ground requires a very hard pull on them. Maybe enough to make it a little 7A. Grade to be confirmed.

Fontainebleau - Mont Blanc - Rasta Coquette (assis) 7A




"Rasta Roquette"'left line on the picture, starts the same as "Rasta Coquette", but make a dyno to a good sandy hold on the left, without using the big slopey crimps of "Rasta Coquette". Exit slightly left.
Even though it might look not that hard at first, this took me quite some time. The position to dyno from makes it a very strange and hard move.

Fontainebleau - Mont Blanc - Rasta Roquette 7B+(7B)




Finally, now that I had gotten the hang of that move, it didn't take me many attempts anymore to do its sitstart too, "Rasta Roquette (assis)". I estimate that grade to be about 7B+(7C). Of course, also to be confirmed.
Unfortunately, while taking a longer break before attempting the sitstart, I had forgotten to turn off the camera and the battery didn't want to wait until I was finished to give up on me. Something that will not happen soon again.
Anyway, it probably will not take too long before I go back and make a video, as the static version of "Rasta Roquette" is still a project and there are more boulders with potential.

No comments:

Post a Comment