Wednesday, June 28, 2017

June 28, 2017 - Holiday starts!

I wasn't able to climb over the weekend, Monday was too hot and yesterday the weather had started to become very unstable and of course, today is the first day of my two weeks and a half holiday.
It had rained a lot yesterday evening and even though there was a nice breeze and quite some sun in the morning, the boulders in J.A. Martin were in far from ideal conditions. In other words, there was no friction at all.

On Friday day morning I'm leaving towards Biarritz with my oldest son to try some surfing for our very first time.
That left me with only today for climbing, as tomorrow I will be busy with preparing for the trip.
On top of that, I only had a mere two hours of possible climbing before the chance of rain was at 70%.

The boulder of "Dark Side" was dry, but I didn't even think of trying it in these conditions when the grip on the holds is very uncertain.
I was going to try "Gravity" to the right of it to get the feel again after almost a week of no climbing.

I must admit that it felt more like a 7A at the moment that I climbed it, but most likely this was due to the bad friction and I didn't feel at ease.

Fontainebleau - J.A. Martin - Gravity 6C+(7A)




With the boulders lower down the hill being in even worse conditions, I decided to stay near the top and started walking to the East until I reached "La Voie de Kim", which was luckily dry enough.
I quickly watched a video to be sure to not make any mistake about the start and finish, looked at the line, improvised my movement and flashed it with ease.

Not worth 7A in my opinion, but well worth the time. Very nice climb!

Fontainebleau - J.A. Martin - La Voie de Kim (assis) 7A(6C+)




Afterwards I still had some time to make some progress in "Contact" lower down the hill.
I was finally able to stick the first move, the dyno to a bad sloper, but failed to finish.

Just before 11h I arrived back at the car, just in time as the first of many showers had started.

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