Sunday, June 18, 2017

June 18, 2017 - And it burns burns burns ...

It was way too hot for climbing but I couldn't resist and left early the relatively unknown area of Apremont Brûlis.
Manuel (Marquès) opened some new boulders in a new small sector and some looked nice enough for me to hike all the way up to there.

It was good that I called Jean-Pierre (Roudneff) during the hike for some more detailed directions, because without them I wouldn't have known that I had to go uphill any moment from where I was.
In the distance I could make out some clusters of boulders right under the crest of the hill.
I waded my way through a dense field of high ferns and arrived exhausted by the heat on the top of the hill where I luckily immediately found the roof of "Tout à Fait", one of the new boulders opened by Manuel.

The sun was burning and standing directly in it was unbearable already while it was only 10h in the morning.
The roof, however, was nicely in the shade and so was the mantle from the topout of "Tout à Fait" for the time being.
When I read the description, it said that it starts all the way left as for "Tête Basse" (video below), but the line on the picture showed different.
To be sure, I looked at the video of Manuel, who opened it, and he started where I ended up starting.
So what is correct? The description or the video of the opener doing the problem?
I chose the latter, which seemed the most obvious.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Brûlis - Tout à Fait 7A




Directly after, I flashed the very nice and logical but easy traverse "Tête Basse".
Unusual for problems opened by Manuel that they feel easy for the grade, like this one.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Brûlis - Tête Basse 7A




On a boulder at 20m from "Tout à Fait", he opened some more problems, out of which "Danser Forêt".
Opened as a 7A, but I would have believed it completely if the published grade would have been 7A+.
Hard mantle with a good, but marbled and slippery crimp that requires a lot of trust.
Very nice problem that looks much easier than it is.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Brûlis - Danser Forêt 7A




By now it was almost 11h30 and I still wanted to try "Saï (debout)" in the main sector before noon, so I hiked back in the direction of the car.
The boulder of "Saï" is the first one that you pass when walking to the main sector.
The sitstart looks crazy hard, but then again it is 7C+(8A), but luckily, the standstart is a doable 7B.

Completely my kind of thing, slopers and compression.
It didn't give me much trouble and I finished it on my third attempt.
Really nice problem this one!

Fontainebleau - Apremont Brûlis - Saï (debout) 7B




The afternoon heat was tackled with river swimming and garden water fun.
Now I'm off to the shower to rinse away the afterburn.

No comments:

Post a Comment