Thursday, June 1, 2017

June 01, 2017 - Expose yourself.

With still 29°C at 19h this evening, it was way too hot to try "Lamia-San", even though I wanted to, because I had liked to test my new shoes on it.
I did have a look at it though, when I walked by it to have another look at "Tao Pai Pai" on a big boulder 30m further.
"Tao Pai Pai" is also opened by Grégoire (Thibault), and just like when he opened "L'Architecte Trismégiste", there stands a meter high leftover of what once a tree. One on which you don't want to fall on or it might penetrate you from below and come out through your mouth again.
That's why I only had a look at it a few times, but never had the guts to start trying it.

This evening was different.
I definitely wanted to climb in the shade and didn't want to drive longer than five minutes, so it probably helped as a motivation to try "Tao Pai Pai" as it fulfilled my requirements.
At first I had no idea how to climb it and thought that the pockets had to be avoided, but as soon I started trying, I figured out that the difficulty was in the first moves.
It's an arete, but actually, you climb it like a prow with hard compression on very bad slopers.
Once you are able to reach the first pocket, you will be glad to get a hold of it.

A great line, very exposed, but once you get used to it, it's not that bad after all.
It will probably never become a popular boulder though.

Fontainebleau - La Ségognole - Tao Pai Pai 7B


1 comment:

  1. That tree stump looks horrendous. I wouldn't want to fall on it.
    Good climb.

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