Tomorrow it will be "only" 27°C, but I couldn't wait and decided to face the heat again anyway.
When I was thinking of cooler climber areas nearby, "Le Diktat du Hamac" came into my mind.
It's on the first boulder of Coquibus Longs Vaux when coming from the parking. I knew that the boulder would be mostly exposed to the sun at this time of the day, but not the small roof and the topout of "Le Diktat du Hamac". At least, as far as I could remember from trying it once a couple of years ago.
I did go back once, but as the holds under the roof dry slowly, I didn't have the chance to try it again.
I remembered from last time that the moves were quite hard and I wasn't able to do all of them.
When looking at Ivan's (Moreels) face in the video of his ascent, it looked like it was hard for him too. Especially the last moves.
As I expected, the boulder was lying mostly in the sun, but not the parts that had to be climbed.
It was hot, but there on top of the hill, was a breeze that made it all just bearable.
To my big surprise, the moves didn't feel as hard as I remembered and I could easily cruise my way up to the slopers near the top.
I knew that I only had to work out the last part now, but that didn't go as smooth. At least not when trying the method Ivan used.
I gave it a try with a left heelhook instead of doing something on the right and unlocked the sequence that fit me most.
All in all a very nice problem with some very nice moves and a crux at the end.
Kind of strange that it only has ten registered repeats for such a nice boulder so close to the parking.
Fontainebleau - Coquibus Longs Vaux - Le Diktat du Hamac 7A+
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