Thursday, June 23, 2022

June 23, 2022 - Bla, bla, bla, blabla.

I was made aware yesterday that the opener of the problems in Diplodocus that I did on Tuesday, apparently started with both hands on the low sloper under the overhang and claimed to be slightly more difficult. I was given the link to the Instagram of the opener, where it showed the original start. It was hard to laugh out loud, because the opener apparently used the exact same starting holds, but just with different body parts. As it happened that I have to work US hours again today, I decided to go back this morning to avoid any further sometimes pointless discussions. Clear conventions can be a good thing sometimes, but I had the feeling that some were picking nits in this case.
Using the original start of the opener, I repeated the three problems on my first attempt and all within the short timespan of barely fifteen minutes. I like toehooks, which may have helped, but I can't say that the original start adds anything whatsoever to the difficulty. Even though I did like the start with the toehook, it basically defies all logic, and that's just my own humble opinion, for what it's worth and meaning no offense at all to the opener.
Original sitstart of "La Pousse-Rapière (droite assis)", doesn't change anything to the difficulty.

Fontainebleau - Diplodocus - La Pousse-Rapière (droite assis originale) 7A



Original sitstart of "Magic Rambo (assis)", doesn't change anything to the difficulty.

Fontainebleau - Diplodocus - Magic Rambo (assis originale) 7A+



Original sitstart of "La Pousse-Rapière (assis)", doesn't change anything to the difficulty.

Fontainebleau - Diplodocus - La Pousse-Rapière (assis originale) 7B+



To finish the session, I did "Blablatix(direct)", something that I somehow had never noticed before on previous visits. Its name funnily seemed to fit the day, with a wink of an eye.

Fontainebleau - Diplodocus - Blablatix (direct) 7A

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2 comments:

  1. AnonymousJune 24, 2022 at 12:27 PM

    Thank you, for your feedback, Filip.
    I realy admire your passion and your energy.
    I regret that the start I intended makes no difference to you. For some, the difference was crucial.
    A fried of me had to fight hard to make the first move. Even though, he liked the toe-hook or bat-hang start ;-)
    What is self-evident for some, makes a decisive difference for others. In my opinion, start positions always change the character of a boulder. Even if not always and not for everyone the dificulty.

    Best regards
    Theo

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    1. Filip NotebaertJune 25, 2022 at 5:46 PM

      Hi Theo,
      I really appreciate your feedback and want to add that the difficulty made no difference to me, because toehooks are kind of my thing and something that I'm quite good at.
      The statements that I made were completely personal and I realize that someone with different skills, not being toehooks, can experience the bat-hang start as much harder or even impossible. I also want to add that despite being not a very logical start, I did think it was more fun.
      Looking forward to try many other new problems from you, "La Pousse-Rapière (gauche assis" being one of them.

      Take care!
      Filip

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