Friday, July 10, 2020

July 10, 2020 - Flip the switch.

It's been quite some years ago when I first tried "Paie ton Mac Do" in between the areas of Buthiers Canard and Buthiers Tennis. Even though I think I couldn't even stick the first move, it was a boulder that in some way attracted me and I found it strange that it only had a handful repetitions for such a popular area. I'm quite sure that if this boulder would have been in the center of for example Franchard Isatis,, you would have to stand in line to give it a try.
Up to a few weeks ago, when I started trying it again, it was even stranger that it still only had six registered repetitions on bleau.info, the last one being in March 2016.

This evening was the third session spread over three weeks that I spent trying "Paie ton Mac Do" and the previous two, I never managed to stick the crux move, going for and holding the small crimp for the right hand near the top of the prow. I touched it nearly every time, but as it's oriented in a wrong way, I hadn't been able to hold it for longer than half a second.
Somehow, the bad sloper for the left hand felt better than before and it appeared to be what I needed to hold the crimp and continue to the slopers above. I had never gotten to that point before, and to my surprise, there wasn't much anymore that I could hang on to to move higher up. On top of that, it all felt a bit sandy and my hands started to sweat. Mentally, I noticed that I was starting to prepare to fall or jump off, but I flipped a switch, tried to remain calm and struggled myself to the top.

Still only seven registered repetitions now for what is a truly underestimated beautiful boulder.
There still is the sitstart and a variation to do on it, so this boulder definitely hasn't seen the last of me yet.

Fontainebleau - Buthiers Canard - Paie ton Mac Do 7B


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