There was a big wind storm all the way with gushes of wind reaching up to 120 kmph, which made the drive an almost constant struggle to keep the car in the lane it was in.
The last weather forecast I had seen for Bleau, predicted rain on Sunday, so I didn't have expectations concerning climbing.
The closer I got home, however, the clouds cleared out for the most part, and with the heavy wind, I started hoping for dry boulders. Or at least something to climbable.
It was already passed 13h when I parked at the buvette of Apremont, and it looked promising.
The air felt dry despite the rain from last night and the hard wind seemed to do a good job.
I had chosen to go back to the boulder of "L'Origine du Monde", knowing that it's facing South-West and it was exactly from that direction that the wind was coming.
The boulder was in perfect conditions and the stormy wind kept the bad slopers of "L'Origine du Monde (assis)" constantly dry between attempts.
The usage of the small stone for the feet is allowed, but seemingly lowers the difficulty with almost a grade.
It is a bit morpho though and for me this felt like a hard 7B, maybe even 7B+.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Ouest - L'Origine du Monde (assis) 7B+(7C)
The exit to the left, "L'Origine du Monde (gauche assis)" was done on my second attempt, but I must admit that I have been quite lucky there.
A much nicer line than it looked at first.
A much nicer line than it looked at first.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Ouest - L'Origine du Monde (gauche assis) 7B+
Afterwards, I spent at least half an hour trying "Crispr Cas9", but always fell off the very hard mantle at the end. Even when half of my body was already more or less on the boulder, I couldn't get over the balance tipping point.
It sucked the energy out of me and I needed a break.
I still wanted to climb a bit, so I decided to stop at Rocher des Souris again on the way home. See if I could get any further in the right sitstart of "Fokechnikov", something that I had tried already quite a few times by now.
The friction on the bad slopey rail was better than ever, and I finally managed to make the first (known) ascent of "Fokechnikov (assis droite)".
Sitstart on the right with a three finger undercut pocket right hand and a three finger small sidepull for the left. Catch a slopey rail on the left, match there and try get both feet over to the left to get in position for the dyno of "Fokechnikov".
Definitely not as easy or straightforward as it may seem in the video.
Depending on your morphology, I estimate this about 7B(7A+).
It sucked the energy out of me and I needed a break.
I still wanted to climb a bit, so I decided to stop at Rocher des Souris again on the way home. See if I could get any further in the right sitstart of "Fokechnikov", something that I had tried already quite a few times by now.
The friction on the bad slopey rail was better than ever, and I finally managed to make the first (known) ascent of "Fokechnikov (assis droite)".
Sitstart on the right with a three finger undercut pocket right hand and a three finger small sidepull for the left. Catch a slopey rail on the left, match there and try get both feet over to the left to get in position for the dyno of "Fokechnikov".
Definitely not as easy or straightforward as it may seem in the video.
Depending on your morphology, I estimate this about 7B(7A+).
Fontainebleau - Rocher des Souris - Fokechnikov (assis droite) 7B(7A+)
No comments:
Post a Comment