After a good and longer night of sleep, I felt better this morning, but still felt like one of the living dead.
Still, just before 10h this morning, I already left to Apremont Ouest, not being sure if the boulders would be dry after yesterday's and last night's bits of rain.
I was hoping that the strong wind and dry air would do a good enough job to allow me to climb.
To be sure, I had a look without crashpads first, but quickly realised that I would have to go back for them. Almost everything was blown dry, and even in very good conditions.
To avoid potential crowds, I had planned to try some of the new boulders opened by Tony (Fouchereau) and Thierry (Vasseur), as I knew that most of them were isolated from the main area where it can get quite busy in the weekends.
I wanted to warm up with "L'Origine du Monde", which didn't look very hard, but it did take me while before I found a good method. It wasn't as straight forward as it looked.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Ouest - L'Origine du Monde 7A(7A+)
I briefly tried the moves from the "L'Origine du Monde (assis)", but it felt too morpho and I was distracted by the nearby and also new "Crise d'Imagination". A small boulder that looked to be in my style, explosif.
Basically, this one comes down to one very hard morpho move from a tiny crimp to a very bad sloper.
Not to start any discussion or anything, but I'm quite convinced that this will feel less hard when you're taller.
Fun lowball!
Basically, this one comes down to one very hard morpho move from a tiny crimp to a very bad sloper.
Not to start any discussion or anything, but I'm quite convinced that this will feel less hard when you're taller.
Fun lowball!
Fontainebleau - Apremont Ouest - Crise d'Imagination 7B
The skin on my fingertips was already starting to wear off slowly, but my mind was now set on the beautiful line of "Arcobleau". I wonder if they forgot an 'H' in that name that though.
When I was working out the problem, I came to the conclusion that the standing start was very much worth the effort on itself and felt like a good 7B.
When I was working out the problem, I came to the conclusion that the standing start was very much worth the effort on itself and felt like a good 7B.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Ouest - Arcobleau 7B
I doubted if I still had enough energy left to also send the sitstart, the original problem, but I persisted to establish a near perfect flow in movement.
The last moves gave me very hard time, but after taking a longer break, I was glad to tick this beauty off. To be honest, I had already taken peace with the fact having to come back for it.
The last moves gave me very hard time, but after taking a longer break, I was glad to tick this beauty off. To be honest, I had already taken peace with the fact having to come back for it.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Ouest - Arcobleau (assis) 7B+
My skin was really worn now, but on the way back home, I made a quick stop at Rocher des Souris to see what I would still be worth trying some variations on the boulder of "Squeeze Me".
The only thing that I could still squeeze out though, was a logical sitstart of "Fokechnikov", making it about 6C+(7A) with the extra couple of delicate moves.
The only thing that I could still squeeze out though, was a logical sitstart of "Fokechnikov", making it about 6C+(7A) with the extra couple of delicate moves.
Fontainebleau - Rocher des Souris - Fokechnikov (assis) 6C+(7A)
I felt relieved and more or less alive again after this good climbing session. Ready for a new hectic week.
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