Thursday, May 19, 2016

May 19, 2016 - Misfits on a mosquitofarm.

When I left for a quick climb after diner to disconnect from the stress of work, I more or less improvised to go try "Misfits" in Roche au Four again.
I didn't have high hopes, I wasn't even sure if the boulder was going to be dry after the bad weather from yesterday en last night. After all, the boulder is isolated in a quite dense part of the forest, but I went for it anyway.
Roche au Four is close to the parking and to many other areas, so I would have the chance climb something at least.

I had already spent many sessions on "Misfits" and I honestly don't know how many times I already changed my method slightly, but it must have been a lot. Each time thinking that I now found the right method.
Over time, the crux seemed to move more and more towards the end as after so many tries, the first couple of moves had become a routine.
I could do all the moves easily, except for the two last. I had even done the very last one only once while working out the problem.

Like I wrote before, my hopes weren't high when I left, but on my first try on "Misfits" today, I fell out of the last move. Even matching both hands on top of the boulder and going for the far right vertical sloper went pretty smooth.
It was then that my hope started rising and I got a little nervous. This could be the day today to finally send "Misfits", I thought by myself while I tried to stay calm, being attacked my mosquitos all the time.

Half an hour later, I was still falling out the last move or two and I almost called it a day, but decided to take a short rest first before giving it one more go.
It turned out to be a good decision because finally I was able send it! I shouted out my relief when I had the last hold, a jug, just like I remembered it from the only other time I did that move.

I always enjoyed going to that particular boulder as it's such a lonely and isolated one. Not once in all the times and hours I have spent there have I seen another person passing by. Peace and quietness assured!
Luckily I still can go back as there are still two problems left to do on it, "Pleine Mesure" and "Misfits (direct)".
Too bad about all the mosquitos around the boulder, especially them probably being happy to finally have a human around to feed on. It's a spot of give and take and they're welcome.

"Misfits" is opened by David Evrard and Stéphan Denys and I think their problems are always hard for the proposed grade. Probably they realised that too because they proposed 7A(7B).
For me this felt like a 7B, even hard 7B.

Fontainebleau - Roche au Four - Misfits 7A+(7B)


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