Tuesday, May 17, 2016

May 17, 2016 - The Peanut Factor.

Quick post about having revisited Cuvier Nord in dry conditions today, and what a difference!
I had about an hour time, but did four small ascents and had the honour to meet and talk to Jean-Claude Valluet.

Jean-Claude Valluet is responsible for opening tons of problems up to 6C, but more important, also responsible for cleaning even more boulders and letting others open the problems that were freed on them.
He for instance cleaned most of the boulders of the area L'Anarchodrome next to Canche aux Merciers.
His name doesn't sound that familiar, but it is thanks to people like him why we are able to climb on so many boulders in all areas.
Now, at the age of 72, he was cleaning some more boulders in Cuvier Nord, opening the easiest ones himself, or letting others open the harder ones.
When I think of, it seems weird, but he was already opening problems before I was even born.
It was nice talking to him, he's an adorable man with a high peanut factor.

The term 'Peanut Factor' comes from an episode of The Simpsons, where Homer Simpson meets a very old man that he likes a lot and when he kisses the old man on his head he says "Hmmm he tastes like peanuts" and kisses him even more.
Since then, Sandra and I always use the term 'Peanut Factor' when we see cute older people.

Anyway, my back feels already better after doing the exercises Sandra told me me to do. Thanks again sweetheart!!

Here's a quick list of what I was able to get on video in less than an hour in Cuvier Nord with dry conditions ...

"Le Bactriane" is nice, not that difficult once you know what to do. 6C+ will do for the grade.
Tried the left exit too a couple of times, but it seems morpho. Will try again some other time.

Fontainebleau - Cuvier Nord - Le Bactriane 6C+(7A)




"Le Dos Fin" is right next to the boulder of "Le Bactriane". It will never be a popular problem.
The hardest part was not touching the boulder in the back. You really need a 'dos fin' (a not too big back) for this one.

Fontainebleau - Cuvier Nord - Le Dos Fin 7A(6C+)




A repeat of "Viper", but this time without crashpad as Tony said that's the convention.
I don't call the 3cm thin mat a crashpad. Just protecting my ass from the sharper stones on the ground there. Grade stays at 7A for me, even though the first move was now slightly harder.

Fontainebleau - Cuvier Nord - Viper 6C+(7A+)




I tried "Abominaffreux (assis)" on my first visit a couple of days ago, but it was impossible due to the bad conditions. My foot just kept on slipping away.
Now, in dry conditions, it went like a charm.

Fontainebleau - Cuvier Nord - Abominaffreux (assis) 7A(6C+)


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