Wednesday, May 4, 2016

May 04, 2016 - Nosepoking.

Rocher du Guetteur is a nice recently developed area near the '25 Bosses' path somewhere between Rocher des Souris and Mont Pivot.

It was pretty hot, but the sticky not frequently climbed sandstone was still sticky enough. Even though, the skin on my fingertips is really thin again and burned when I was warming up.
It's a pity I didn't have more time, because I still only saw a small part of the area.
On the other hand, it leaves the possibility of discovering more boulders, more projects to come.

"L'Attaque Massive" looks easy, but the first move is much more difficult than it looks.
The lowest pedestal may not be used for the feet and I had to pull mostly on my left heelhook, hurting my knee and I feared for injuring my left hamstring.

Maybe with some more skin on my fingers the right sloper will stick more and hurt less, making the problem 7A, now it felt like a 7A+.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Guetteur - L'Attaque Massive 7A(7A+)




Then I really wanted to see and try "Le Pif de Cyrano".

'Cyrano de Bergerac' is a play where the main character has a huge nose. Despite his poetical talents, he is convinced that not even an ugly woman will fall in love with him because of his nose.

"Pif" is a French slang word for nose. When you see the boulder, its name becomes obvious!

I tried the original start in many ways, but it is simply way too morpho for me. How much I tried, it was simply not possible.
Then again, the opener was Tony Fouchereau, and he is huge.

I looked for and found a slightly different start, but still hard enough to keep it a 7A according to me.
I will show Tony the video over time and ask for his opinion about this alternative start.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Guetteur - Le Pif de Cyrano 7A


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