September 08, 2018 - Pinching wood.

Yesterday morning, they delivered the six cubicle metres of firewood that I had ordered a couple of days ago. Looking at the big pile when I arrived home after work, just meant more work, but after diner, I first went to Roche aux Sabots Sud for half an hour. I wanted to work practice "Zen mes Doigts" and find a way for doing the mantle at the end.
The first part of the problem went quite smooth, but the pocket pinch for the right hand wasn't in good condition due to the small amount of grizzle that morning.
I focussed on the last part though and finally found a way to mantle up. It didn't even feel that hard anymore. I still had to stack the firewood though, so I left the boulder and decided to come back for some real attempts the morning after.

Back at home, it took me a bit over two hours to work away the pile of wood, stack it nicely and cover it for potential rain.
I worked non stop but considered the constant pinching in those heavy logs as a good training for the pocket pinch of "Zen mes Doigts".

Started around 20h.

Finished at 22h15.

This morning, by back felt soar and my muscles were stiffened a bit, but the pocket pinch of "Zen mes Doigts" was in excellent condition.
After doing some of the moves however, my muscles loosened and I had the impression that my pinching power was way better than the day before. Or was it wishful thinking? Either way, it definitely helped, because it didn't take long before I finished the beauty off.

I really wonder why such a great, but hard line on a not unpopular boulder only has three registered repeats (mine included) on bleau.info.
From start to end, the moves are simply beautiful!

Fontainebleau - Roche aux Sabots Sud - Zen mes Doigts 7B

Even though my muscles felt good, generally I felt quite tired from yesterday's heavy duty and my back still felt soar.
I didn't want to stop yet though, but wanted to do something easier and new to finish with, so I slowly made my way to the 91.1 area where Tony (Fouchereau) had opened "Flip Flop (assis)", and it looked like a nice problem to try.

"Flip Flop (assis)" is indeed a very nice problem, but probably a bit morpho for the smaller climbers.
I did it on my second attempt already, but still somehow it felt too hard for only 6C, but closer to soft 7A.

Fontainebleau - 91.1 - Flip Flop (assis) 6C(7A)