When I was in Givet on a business trip on Monday, I did tiny bit of bouldering in Nismes, just over the border in Belgium.
The rest of the week, when I wasn't trying "Lamia-San", it was raining.
On my last session in "Lamia-San", I was so tired that I couldn't even get to the point where I usually could. It was time to give it a rest for a while and come back later again with renewed energy and motivation.
I know that I will do it one day.
Today, I decided to wander around and climb some lower graded sevens on my way.
I wanted to profit from the cooler morning temperature and already before 10h I parked at the buvette of Apremont in Barbizon.
Besides starting in Apremont Envers, I didn't have a plan in mind.
It had rained hard and a lot yesterday evening, but nearly everything was dry. The wind had done a good job.
There were some grey and even dark grey clouds, but it didn't look alarming.
I warmed up in "Le Soupir du Menuisier (assis)", which I was able to do on my second attempt.
The first move is the crux, but after that you still have to stay calm and very focussed for stepping into the slab.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Envers - Le Soupir du Menuisier (assis) 7A
The direct version, "Le Soupir du Menuisier (direct)" is supposed to be 7A+, but after having done it on my first attempt, I thought it felt easier than the version to the left.
Can't call it a flash, because I had already done the first move, which is basically the crux.
Can't call it a flash, because I had already done the first move, which is basically the crux.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Envers - Le Soupir du Menuisier (direct) 7A+
The warmup was short, but I felt in good shape. Motivated for more.
Just above the boulder of "Le Soupir du Menuisier", lies the one with the small prow of "Compresse Nez".
I had spent already three short sessions in it, but always came too short to catch the slopey edge right hand. It always felt too morpho, but still somehow it had always attracted me.
The big slopey pinch for the left hand is just beautiful and fits perfectly in your hand.
It's the kind of hold that, if I was setting a boulder in the bouldering hall and would discover it in the box of holds, I would take it out, screw it on the wall and build the rest of the problem around it.
This time, instead of trying to immediately reach very far to the small hold on the edge, I decided to use some very bad slopers on the edge as intermediate to work my way to the small hold.
It still took me quite some tries, but in the end it turned to be my method and worked my way to the top.
Just above the boulder of "Le Soupir du Menuisier", lies the one with the small prow of "Compresse Nez".
I had spent already three short sessions in it, but always came too short to catch the slopey edge right hand. It always felt too morpho, but still somehow it had always attracted me.
The big slopey pinch for the left hand is just beautiful and fits perfectly in your hand.
It's the kind of hold that, if I was setting a boulder in the bouldering hall and would discover it in the box of holds, I would take it out, screw it on the wall and build the rest of the problem around it.
This time, instead of trying to immediately reach very far to the small hold on the edge, I decided to use some very bad slopers on the edge as intermediate to work my way to the small hold.
It still took me quite some tries, but in the end it turned to be my method and worked my way to the top.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Envers - Compresse Nez (droite) 7B
I wanted to take a small break, but didn't feel like simply sitting or hanging around, so I decided to walk all the way to Apremont Désert.
There were some new problems published recently and it seemed like to a good opportunity when I was just wandering around anyway.
I found all the boulders fast, but only "Obélix" seemed in good enough condition and wasn't too exposed as opposed to some.
It's a small boulder and it looks easy, but it turned out to be quite a struggle to find a good sequence.
When I ended up at the mantle, I had to think of Jan (Gorrebeeck), who always says to go and check the topout.
Of course, I didn't, and found myself on a much harder than I expected mantle.
There were some new problems published recently and it seemed like to a good opportunity when I was just wandering around anyway.
I found all the boulders fast, but only "Obélix" seemed in good enough condition and wasn't too exposed as opposed to some.
It's a small boulder and it looks easy, but it turned out to be quite a struggle to find a good sequence.
When I ended up at the mantle, I had to think of Jan (Gorrebeeck), who always says to go and check the topout.
Of course, I didn't, and found myself on a much harder than I expected mantle.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - Obélix 7A(7A+)
Closer to main area of Apremont Désert, I still had to finish "Endorphines", a small prow on bad slopers that I never managed to do despite many attempts.
Knowing that my shape was good today, I gave it another go.
I only needed three tries today to finally tick this one off.
Small prow, but great climbing!
Knowing that my shape was good today, I gave it another go.
I only needed three tries today to finally tick this one off.
Small prow, but great climbing!
Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - Endorphines 7A+(7A)
What also appeared recently on the topo of Apremont Désert, is the small isolated "Théorie" sector.
I decided to check it out and found myself in a beautiful hidden spot far from the main sector with some great looking boulders, especially the roof with "La Théorie du Complot".
But first I wanted to do "La Théorie de Teddy", an easy looking 7A that did turn out to be very easy, as I flashed it with ease.
I decided to check it out and found myself in a beautiful hidden spot far from the main sector with some great looking boulders, especially the roof with "La Théorie du Complot".
But first I wanted to do "La Théorie de Teddy", an easy looking 7A that did turn out to be very easy, as I flashed it with ease.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - La Théorie de Teddy 7A
Now I could start with "La Théorie du Complot", in a roof that is hard to resist to not climb in it.
The first moves under the roof are a bit exposed with the small boulders under it, but after carefully working out the moves separately, I built up enough confidence and went for some real attempts.
The holds are all quite positive, but the position in which you are to take doesn't always make it easy to use them in the best way, making it quite a physical line.
I enjoyed each of the thirty minutes trying and working out the moves and finally sending it from the start.
The first moves under the roof are a bit exposed with the small boulders under it, but after carefully working out the moves separately, I built up enough confidence and went for some real attempts.
The holds are all quite positive, but the position in which you are to take doesn't always make it easy to use them in the best way, making it quite a physical line.
I enjoyed each of the thirty minutes trying and working out the moves and finally sending it from the start.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - La Théorie du Complot 7B+
It was barely 14h15 after I did "La Théorie du Complot" and I still had enough energy to climb some more, but I still wanted to keep some skin and energy for tomorrow.
Besides, it was still a long walk back to the buvette and I still had to mow the lawn and cut some plants in my garden today.
It was a good harvest.
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