Maybe it was because of our soar from climbing fingers hurt so much that day, but I remember that Bram, Pieter and me found the lower start way too hard for the proposed grade.
Or maybe we didn't try hard enough?
This evening on my way home, I decided to stop at Cuvier Bellevue again to try to figure out what it was that we overlooked.
It was even warmer than Sunday and even though the boulder was mostly in the shade, the top slopers had been in the sun for a long time and felt warm, meaning much less friction.
Despite that, it only took me a handful of tries before I was able to topout from the correct conventional start.
For me it only made the first move a bit annoying because of not being able to see the next hold while sitting down.
It didn't feel more difficult, but that can also be thanks to the rest day yesterday.
Fontainebleau - Cuvier Bellevue - Anak 7A+
After diner I went back to "Lamia-San".
On my last session I got a bit demotivated because I wasn't able to get to the point anymore from where the last move starts.
Now my first tries were the same, but before I became demotivated again, I decided to have a closer look ... again ... and just slightly changed my method.
The new method adds a small extra move for the feet, but it seemed to work and I found myself on the same point again as in my best attempt but slightly more relaxed.
After also slightly my body position while preparing for the last dynamic move to the top, I was finally able to reach over it, slapped the top sloper with my full hand, hung on for a second, but slid off.
Some other attempts after that were more or less the same, but there is progress again.
No send yet, but totally motivated again!
The first slapper on Anak looks really hard.
ReplyDeleteGreat boulder.