Sunday, April 2, 2017

April 02, 2017 - Sloper eats skin!

I had to be in Belgium this weekend, but I was able leave back home early in the morning today, so around noon I was already having a coffee at home, trying to make up my mind where to go climbing.
After a four hour drive I didn't feel like going too far, so I decided to keep it simple and went to 95.2 which was barely three minutes of driving.
As expected on a day like today, the parking of the Croix Saint-Jérôme was overcrowded and cars were already parked far into the streets of Noisy-sur-École.
Somehow I really didn't care and didn't mind walking the extra couple of hundred meters, straight towards "Pierre Précieuse / Le Yaniro", the name of which depends on the method used.

For "Le Yaniro" you have to make a special so called 'yaniro' move.
Basically it consists of putting your right leg over your supporting left arm and then pushing yourself up, allowing you to reach the high sloper statically.
The 'yaniro' move is really peculiar and after some tries I determined that it just felt way too strange for me to move in the right direction, ... up.

"Pierre Précieuse" starts and ends exactly like "Le Yaniro", but instead of doing the 'yaniro' move, you dynamically go straight to the bad sloper near the top.
I had tried this one already many times, but I was never able to stick the dyno to the sloper.
The sloper is really bad and sliding off of it while trying to hang on for dear life, took a lot of skin of my fingertips.
It was even so bad that after I had finally done "Pierre Précieuse", small drops of blood found their way to the surface.

Fontainebleau - 95.2 - Pierre Précieuse 7A+




The sloper that ate my skin.

It took me over an hour of trying before I sent "Pierre Précieuse" and it had made me quite tired.
The thin to almost non existent layer of skin wasn't really motivating either to start looking for something else, so I decided to call it a day.
After all, I started redecorating my oldest son's bedroom and there was still a lot of work to do so I could use the time.

On my way back however, I noticed that surprisingly the boulder with "Vis-à-Vis" was completely free, which is very exceptional on a crowded day like this.
I took my chances and stopped to try "Extraction Terrestre".

The start was easier than I expected. I easily got to the jug in the roof, but fell off the next far move.
My skin was hurting and had cooled down already.
After a two minute break, it went down on my second attempt.

Fontainebleau - Rocher des Souris - Extraction Terrestre 7A+


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