After all, the name does translate into "The Overhang of Ferns".
It was more by coincidence that I passed by it yesterday while walking around in the area, and noticed that apparently somebody had cleaned the boulder where the line goes.
A nice big bad sloper had revealed itself now and finally I was able to figure out how the problem more or less goes.
I decided to come back for it tomorrow (today) and give my skin a break for another night.
Already on my first attempt I knew that this was going to be much harder than I expected.
The first move wasn't an issue, but letting go of my right hand to match my left hand on the lip of the roof felt really hard.
It took a while before I had found the solution, but as soon as I knew what to do, I could do it every time. Still hard though.
Then came the next crux, the huge move from the crimp to the big sloper near the top.
The first time I tried it, I thought I was never going to be able to reach that far, but after building it up, it became possible.
I can't imagine someone with 5cm less reach to actually stick that move.
For me, "Le Surplomb aux Fougères" is underrated in three ways.
Firstly by the number of registered repeaters, which is only 20, me included. That's really not much for a 7A in the middle of Rocher Guichot.
Secondly by the grade, which is now 7A and really felt like a (hard) 7A+.
Thirdly by the number of stars given on bleau.info, which was an average of only 3, and now is 3,1 because I gave it 4.
Too bad about the small boulder right under it. I hit my leg against it several times and am walking around with a big black spot on it now.
Go try it out, it's well worth it and right next to the parking.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Guichot - Le Surplomb aux Fougères 7A
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