Saturday, July 9, 2016

July 09, 2016 - Not "One Thing".

I left early this morning so I could profit from the cooler morning temperature.
It was announced to be around 30°C again so waiting too long would just turn out against me.
There is a new sector in Boissy-aux-Cailles. Not really new, it was a more or less secretive spot until the beginning of this year, when it was decided to make it public.
As soon as it was published this Winter, I went to have a look around. It's a small sector with maybe 10 to 20 boulders but quite some problems to try.
Being in a dense part of the forest though it stays wet for a long time, so I thought it would be ideal in Summer, a real Summer area.

On my way to Boissy Le Goulot, the name of the sector, I made a hard stop between Le Vaudoué and Boissy-aux-Cailles. My eye had caught something.
There is a big hemp plantation! I got out and took a small cute bud which is drying now. Hey, in the worst case it will just give me a light headache.

The big (legal) hemp plantation near Boissy-aux-Cailles

Upon my arrival in the sector, I actually wanted to start with trying "One Thing" but after having a quick look at the boulder with "Flying Lotus", I noticed that for the first time I found it completely dry. The three other times I was there, either the undercling or the crack, or both, were wet.
I had to take my chance to finally try this ultra classic looking problem.
From the first try I had this positive feeling about it. This might go today, I said to myself.
When I got the first time to the slopers on top, I thought it was done, but there actually starts the second hard part. I still fell out, but at least now I knew what to expect. I wasn't done yet.
My left thigh, however, was starting to hurt pretty bad due to knee-bar under the overhang.
I had to improvise making a kneepad with my towel, which helped a bit.
My joy was great when did "Flying Lotus", it was harder than I had expected, but my suspicion about it being a beautiful ultra classic problem, was correct.
It got the full 5 stars from me on bleau.info.

Fontainebleau - Boissy Le Goulot - Flying Lotus 7A+(7B)




By that time it was close to 10am and it started to become really warm now.
I didn't try "One Thing" anymore, but decided I will come back for it tomorrow as the weather forecast is announced to be even warmer.

The result of the knee-bar.

In the afternoon it was too hot, so we, the family, went swimming in the river in Grez-sur-Loing.

After diner, it had slightly cooled down a bit and before going for another swim in Grez-sur-Loing, I made a small detour via Mont Simonet where I actually went for trying "Le Requin Blanc" but ended up with a German guy, Mathias, working in and doing "Prise de Comprimé" next to it.
Not really hard, but in these hot and sweaty conditions (it was still 28°C) it felt hard enough.
Bleau.info says 7A(6C+), I think it's indeed soft 7A and with really nice moves in it. Hard sitstart though, I thought.

My skin was complaining, my body was overheated, it was time to dive into the Loing and cool down for the night!

Fontainebleau - Mont Simonet - Prise de Comprimé 7A(6C+)


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