Thursday, July 7, 2016

July 07, 2016 - War up North.

With temperatures close to 30°C today it was truly hot.
The soft sandstone traps heat for a long time, just like sand, so I went looking for a boulder up North.
A quick look in Coquibus Vendée turned out into nothing. This area is being forgotten again and the boulders really need a cleaning again.
So I moved a couple 100m further towards Coquibus Auvergne, where I went straight to "Monotoit". It's the first boulder you pass when arriving in the stretched out area, and facing North on the North face of the hill, it stays wet for a long long time.
Even now after these warm sunny days, it still could have been better, but it was good enough. At least the mono under the roof was dry, but the slopers on the topout were ... dry not in good conditions.

I had tried "Monotoit" long ago, on my first time in the area, and then also the roof was dry, but I couldn't hang on to that mono or bidoigt.
Even when I tried the topout separately back then, I wasn't even able to do it. It does have a hard slopey mantle as  topout.
It took me a while before I was able to figure out what to do to get on top, and even when I knew, it was still hard.
Only a few moves on this small roof, but hard from the first to the last!!
I gave this 7A+ on bleau.info, and I'm not the only one.

It was a war up North, but then again, everywhere is war.

Fontainebleau - Coquibus Auvergne - Monotoit 7A


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