Saturday, July 2, 2016

July 02, 2016 - Start with a curse.

Despite having trouble with walking due to a weird muscle injury on my right leg, hip, ass muscle and pelvis, I decided to do the long walk up to Rocher de Milly, especially to have a look at "Dolmen du Divin".
2 km of walking is not that much but with this muscle injury that starts hurting like hell after 200m it's not that fun. Add to that the weight of the crashpad and a backpack, it becomes a whole challenge.
I had finally admitted to my wife yesterday evening about the injury and the pain, and she advised me some stretching exercises that I did that evening and a bit this morning before leaving.
They did help because it did take a while longer before the pain set in, but unfortunately, once it sets in, it doesn't stop until I sit down, and let my leg rest to let the blood stream through.
Depending on how long I rest, the pain eventually comes back. Short rest means pain very soon again, long rest gives me some more pain free time.
The weird (or lucky) thing is that it doesn't bother that much while climbing. Boulders are short climbs and the short rests in between tries help too.
As soon as I start walking again though ... Ai Caramba!

View over the "Plaine de Chanfroy", along the path to Rocher de Milly

It took a while before I was able to find "Dolmen du Divin", only to find out after trying some moves, that I'ld better warm up before trying this to the fullest.
As there is nothing nearby to warm up with, I decided that I would come back again for it another time without injury and maybe closer to Winter so it would be easier to reach without all these 2m high ferns, the tick country as I always call it.

As I had walked all that distance now, I walked a little bit further to the "Sanglier" sector where I easily found "Caramba!". A nice relatively high boulder that looked like an ideal warmup.
Slightly morpho, but had it on my second attempt.
At least I hadn't done all that walking and cursing because of the pain for nothing. Ai Caramba!

Fontainebleau - Rocher de Milly - Caramba! 7A(6C+)




It's a bit of chaos in that sector and with a big crashpad it's hard to navigate through the boulders.
I had made the walk though and was determined to find and try "Punchy" nearby.
It was indeed nearby but the effort I had to do to get there with such a big crashpad felt enormous.
I tried it a couple of times, but after finding a tick, my previous idea to come back near Winter, took over and I packed up.
My plan was to try some problems near the path on the way back. It would make the walk easier and at least I would be able to rest from time to time.
The rests in between were welcomed because the pain while walking started to become unbearable.

After a couple of stops, I arrived at Rocher de Corne-Biche where I wanted to do "Eclats (droite)".
It turned ut to be much easier that the original left exit. Did on my second attempt, but I should have flashed it. Ai Caramba!

Fontainebleau - Rocher de Corne-Biche - Eclats (droite) 7A




On the boulder next to "Eclats" there is a blue problem, number 4 I think, of which Bart Van Raaij opened a sitstart.
I had tried it briefly when I did "Eclats" but it felt too hard for that moment.
It starts with both hands on a low, good undercling, on which you have to pull really hard to reach for a higher slopey sidepull. Then you can use a heelhook to slap the right hand onto a sloper right.
I then used a kind of kneebar to be able to reach for the better hold high up. Once you have that, you finish withe blue problem and you can start breathing again.
I found this one pretty hard. Ai Caramba!

Fontainebleau - Rocher de Corne-Biche - Pavlova de Pont Loup 7A




There is more to do in the area, but now I wanted to make way back to the car without detours.
The walk back took me about 35 minutes instead of the usual 20.
Every 100m I had to stop and let the pain in my leg and ass muscles fade away.
It gave me the occasion to take a picture of the medallion of the "Carrefour de la Resistance".

On July 21st, 1944, 22 French resistance fighters who were captured by the Germans, were taken out the Fontainebleau prison and put onto a truck.
The Germans took them to the "Plaine de Chanfroy" and executed them there on that spot.
A couple of hundred meters further than the medallion, they raised a monument to remember them. Because of my leg, I didn't want to make the detour just for the picture of the monument.

I was glad when I got to the car, I was able to sit down and let my leg finally rest.
My hunger for more climbing wasn't over though, so I checked how far the new opened boulder in a desolate part of Bois du Rocher would be.
At only 200m from the parking was not too bad, so I stopped there on my way home.
I was glad I found it quickly because my leg was screaming to stop and let it rest.
The boulder, (as far as I'm correct) found by Yano Salaün, is a beauty.
A low 45 degree overhanging roof with 3 seventh grade problems on it.
I was able to do the easiest of the 3, the 7A on my second attempt and decided I would come back to try the other ones.
Peace and quietness guaranteed here in the isolated part of the forest. It even has potential for cleaning more boulders and opening more problems.
The trees haven't seen the last of me yet!! Ai Caramba!

Fontainebleau - Bois du Rocher - Bord de Fuite 7A


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