Sunday, February 28, 2016

February 28, 2016 - Bienvenue chez les Ch'tis.

Those who have seen the movie "Bienvenue chez les Ch'tis" probably will remember the scene where the main character is learning to speak the region's dialect.
It's a funny scene, and while climbing "Biloute", for obvious reasons I had to think of the movie.

"Biloute" is one of the problems on the isolated "Abriroc" boulder in Bois des Hauts de Milly.
I had just driven 400 km and needed to be on my own, so the boulder was a perfect choice.

I had tried "Biloute" once before on a hot Summer evening, but I couldn't do it and blamed it on the hot conditions.
Now with only 8 °C and the topo saying it's a 6C, I thought it would have been a quick win.
It turned out to be a hard fight though!

The topo said 6C, bleau.info says 6C+(7A) and the majority of the repeaters say 7A.
I think it's undoubtedly 7A, and certainly not the easiest for the grade.
Reaching, holding and pulling up on the bidoigt (for me it was more like a mono) was pretty tough and when finally standing securely on both feet, it still wasn't finished with the topout.
When standing, I could reach a pretty high sloper that felt insecure to pull myself up on. Getting my right foot really high up and then pulling on the sloper did the trick, but still it was a sketchy move.
I actually had to catch my breath when standing on top of the boulder!

I still tried some of the other problems on the boulder, but didn't get further than some good tries. Leaving me with enough reasons to go back to it. Back to isolation.
Today, it was just "Biloute", HEIN!

Fontainebleau - Bois des Hauts de Milly - Biloute 7A


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