March 03, 2016 - Shockwave.

A shockwave today. At work and in climbing.
At work because of professional reasons and in climbing because I finally did "Onde de Choc", which actually means "shockwave" in French.

Last time I was in Apremont, I wrote that I would probably do this pretty quick when I'm fresh.
Other times I always tried "Onde de Choc" at the end of a climbing session. This time it was the first thing I tried.

When I saw the weather forecast for today, I knew I had to take a couple of hours off work, because it was the first day since long that the weather was announced good.
When I left work, it looked grey and dull, and some drops even fell when I was driving towards Apremont. Luckily not enough to make it wet.
The wind and the cold provided for really good conditions and I went straight for "Onde de Choc". Determined to do it today, I had set it as my main goal.

My warmup was my first try in it, I got close to the top and fell off. Then I did it second go.
I knew it was going to happen today, but I didn't expect it to be so fast.
In such good conditions like today, and with the couple of days of forced rest, it felt really easy for the grade.
Glad I can finally tick this one off.

Fontainebleau - Apremont - Onde de Choc 7B

Having done this so fast, I didn't feel like leaving yet (I just arrived) so I wanted to have some quick video repeats.

"Rêve de Pierre" went down first go.

I thought I had it recorded but for some reason it didn't and I only noticed this at home. Damn! Bummer!

Immediately after that, and right next to it I also repeated "Tango Triste (assis)" for the video.

It's supposed to be easier than "Rêve de Pierre", and it is, but I did have to give it some tries to find the first sequence again.

Once my both hands were on the crack, it was done.

Fontainebleau - Apremont - Tango Triste (assis) 6C+(7A)

From then on I didn't really know what to do so I took out the topo and tried some problems on the way back.

"Fil à Tordre" was one of them. I tried it once long ago and I watched Jan (de Smit) climb it, but I couldn't remember the moves he did.
I guess I will have to look up a video to get the beta for it.

For a moment I was thinking to repeat "Medaille en Chocolat" for the video, but I didn't feel motivated enough to repeat it when I saw the "mirror" of the first part of it and feared for my toes.

A little further, on my way, I found "Clin d'Oeil" free. Ideal to quickly repeat for the video.
When I did it my first time in 2011, it was humid on the top, and I struggled with the slopers.
Today in these conditions it went like a charm and did it also second go.

Fontainebleau - Apremont - Clin d'Oeil 7A(6C+)

It started to get late now and it was about time to go home.

Last time I was in Apremont, I tried "Patate d'Enfer" in Apremont Butte aux Dames. It became a project because I was too tired to finish it.

Now I still felt fresh, and Apremont Butte aux Dames being right next to the car, I couldn't resist and went for a quick try.

It turned out to be the problem in which I invested the most time today. More than 15 minutes non-stop.

"Patate d'Enfer" only has about 3 or 4 moves, but it's the first 2 that make up the grade.
The first move is what I sometimes call 'the definition of morpho'.
I'm not sure if the problem would be possible for people smaller than me.
Last time I couldn't do the first move. Now after some tries it was ok, but then the second move turned out to be not the easiest neither.
I didn't give up however and stood on top some tries later.
A soft to hard 7A depending on your length.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Dames - Patate d'Enfer 7A