Wednesday, February 10, 2016

February 10, 2016 - 50 cm.

It's amazing how much 50 cm can change the difficulty of a boulder problem!
Some years ago I flashed "Chien Assis" in Gorge aux Châts.

At least, that's what I thought until a couple of days ago, Jean-Pierre told me that I actually topped out too soon, that you normally have to traverse another 50 cm to the right before topping out. The description of the problem says: "Sitstart under the crack in the second face of Chien Errant, traverse 1m50 to the right to a good hold, climb the wall and exit via a mantle on slopers."

I thought I counted right about the 1m50, and even today, when I looked at the problem again, I think it's more like traversing 2m, so 50 cm extra, with a pretty hard mantle on very bad slopers.
Add to that some time pressure and the eagerness to climb something after again 5 non-climbing days, and you have a good mix for something to go wrong.

When working out the mantle move, my head was over the edge and really close to the boulder when my right hand unexpectedly slipped, making the side of my head hit the boulder just above the eye. Ouch! Sandstone is soft rock, but that second it felt pretty hard!
The camera wasn't rolling yet, so no video of it, but you do see the aftermath, when most of the blood was wiped off and the wound dried out a bit already.
Nothing bad at all, but a head can bleed fast and a lot. It gave me a little headache afterwards, but I didn't cry.

Anyway, back on topic. When I was talking about 50 cm, for once I wasn't talking about the size of my penis, because than I would be using meters.

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - Chien Assis 6C+(7A)


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