Friday, February 26, 2016

February 26, 2016 - Honoured be thy Name.

No, I'm not religious.

Friday, so we finish earlier at work. I made a few stops on my way home.
My main goal again was "Double Axel" in Cassepot Roches Grises. Last week, I didn't try it because it was crowded by a group of Swedish youngsters, but today, as one would expect in that area, I was alone!
I knew that I had to take my chance and without warming up I gave all I had.
I tried it once, but it was after a long session in Saint Germain and I found it too difficult because of being too tired.

Now I felt pretty fresh and motivated so it all felt much more possible. The pinch left hand requires good conditions, which it was, so holding on to it was surprisingly easy.
Now the difficulty was to catch and hold the small vertical crimp right hand. It's impossible to get it statically, so I had to aim good and let my body get used to the movement before I was able to grab and hold it.
It still took me three goes after holding the crimp before I was able to make a successful dynamic move to the top.
Really nice boulder, and THE classic of the area!

Fontainebleau - Cassepot Roches Grises - Double Axel 7A+




With my main goal for today done, all the rest would be a bonus.
I didn't want to leave there just yet.
Technically I can't call it a flash, because I had already done the standing start of "Crampe in the Ghetto", but anyway, I still was able to "flash" the sitstart of it.

The standing start got (correctly) downgraded to 6C and the sitstart adds just enough to it to make it a standard 7A. Surely not 7A+!

Fontainebleau - Cassepot Roches Grises - Crampe in the Ghetto (assis) 7A(7A+)




What would have been nice to do today, was "L'Immortel" in Cuvier Ouest. I got pretty close on it last Sunday, after work, but had to give up due to limitation in time.
After one try on it today, I immediately felt that it wasn't going to work today so I decided to look for something else.

"L'Introuvable", a 7B+, should be somewhere in the back of the area, or actually even past it. It looks nice on the picture that I saw and I wanted to give it a try.
It gave me the inspiration for the title of today's post, because I wasn't able to find it. Believe me, I looked!!

It wasn't that bad, because on my way to look for it, I found the big overhang with for instance "Démoniaque" and "Les Cavaliers de l'Apocalypse" on it. Visually a beautiful overhang!
I chose to try the latter because it looked easier and I didn't want to spend too much time anymore out there. I still had something else in mind on my way home.

"Les Cavaliers de l'Apocalypse" climbs really nice, with very nice moves and a quite scary mantle out. Scary, because of the small boulder almost right underneath it.

Fontainebleau - Cuvier Ouest - Les Cavaliers de l'Apocalypse 7A




Last thing I had in mind for today, was closer to home, but with a 15 minute walk to it, so I left the area and drove off.

"Chausse-Trappe" is the easier dyno on the boulder with "Le Cadeau" in Rocher du Télégraphe.
I had tried it before, and even though I could quite easily reach the top, I was never able to stick and hold on to the flat slopey top.
With the nearly perfect conditions of today it was much easier, but still not a give-away.
Even though today it went like a charm, I still feel it deserves to be 7A+. Soft maybe, but harder than 7A. 

Third bonus today.
I was hoping for a fourth bonus and still tried "Abri Bouse" on the small boulder next to it.
I got close, but no cigar. Enough reason to go back for it!

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Télégraphe - Chausse-Trappe 7A(7A+)


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