September 28, 2024 - Better than expected.

Last Sunday I went to try the low version of "Brulaap", published just recently. Having done "Brulaap" itself a long time, I remembered it being just below the top of the hill, and it had a good chance of drying fast after rain. The boulder was indeed dry and even though I had dialed the moves of "Brulaap (bas)" pretty quickly, I lacked the power to finish it completely and fell off the last hard move a few times. My long session in "Hypo-Tonus" the day before had taken its toll, and I had to let it go.
Determined to go back to "Brulaap (bas)" this morning, I hoped that the boulder would be dry after a few days with quite a lot of rain. To avoid being disappointed, I kept my expectations low, but was pleased to find the boulder dry with near perfect friction. I felt fresh and still remembered the moves well and after a short warmup trying a few separate moves, I managed to finish it on my third attempt from the start.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Hauts Sablons - Brulaap (bas) 7B+

Having done "Brulaap (bas)" so quickly, it was still early in my climbing session. I felt stronger than expected and was still eager to climb more. I decided to walk to another sector of Franchard Hauts Sablons, knowing that I would pass by the boulder of "La Gauche au Pouvoir", a problem that I had done four years ago, but of which I still had the extended version on my list. Knowing that the left part of the boulder dries rather slowly and where the extended version starts, I had even lower expectations than before, but apparently not rightfully so. The whole line was perfectly dry.
I took my time to do the regular version again until I got past the crux move. The hard mantle can suck out a lot of energy, so I jumped off there, but knew then that the extended version, "La Gauche au Pouvoir (rallongé)", could be done. Still having the crux move in my body, I only needed a few attempts to finish the extended version. 

Fontainebleau - Franchard Hauts Sablons - La Gauche au Pouvoir (rallongé) 7C

At the other sector afterwards, I stopped at the boulder of "The Last Waffle", which I was able to flash without too much effort.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Hauts Sablons - The Last Waffle 7A

"The Last Waffle (gauche)" required a bit more effort, but also went on my first attempt.
I was pleased with my session.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Hauts Sablons - The Last Waffle (gauche) 7A+