Saturday, September 21, 2024

September 21, 2024 - Harder in my book.

My climbing plan for today was to go to Coquibus Arcades, where I wanted to try a few problems, "Hypo-Tonus" on the boulder of "Sinus-X", "Le Chasseur", and "Yahtzee". It had unexpectedly rained yesterday late afternoon and evening, and I hoped that at least one of them would be dry. 
I walked straight to the "Hypo-Tonus", left my gear at the boulder and went searching for "Le Chasseur". Being a relatively new boulder located somewhere isolated, it was the only that I hadn't seen yet. Luckily I found it quite easily, pleased to see that it was dry. But first I wanted to do "Hypo-Tonus", which was dry as well, but of which the start required some rebrushing. Having done "Sinus-X" and its sitstart back in 2016 and 2017 respectively, and "Hypo-Tonus" supposedly having the same grade as "Sinus-X (assis)", I expected it to be a relatively quick deal. Nothing could be farther from the truth.
"Hypo-Tonus" exits in "Sinus-X", but has a sitstart on the right of the magnificent prow. I soon realized that the first two moves were way harder than the sitstart of "Sinus-X" and only made slow, but consistent progress. What I thought would have been a quick deal, turned out to be long and hard battle. The consistent progress slowed down and I kept falling from different places and moves. There is not much room for error, and I had a hard time finding the flow, making small but stupid mistakes that threw me off the boulder.
After at least twenty attempts, and probably much more than that, spread over more than two hours, I almost threw in the towel a few times, but had an even harder time letting it go.
Then suddenly, having taken peace with the possibility of having to come back for it and going for an ultimate last attempt, I finally had a flow, kept it all together and made my way to the top.
Supposedly 7B, but finding this much harder than "Sinus-X (assis)", which is also 7B, I would say that "Hypo-Tonus" is at least 7B+ in my book.
I was exhausted, my fingers and hands felt hot and the skin on my fingers was wrecked, so I didn't go to any of the other boulders anymore, but walked back to the car. Everything felt much heavier than on my way here a few hours ago, but nevertheless, I felt good and was pleased with the send.

Fontainebleau - Coquibus Arcades - Hypo-Tonus 7B(7B+)

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