Saturday, September 14, 2024

September 14, 2024 - Painful atmosphere.

I didn't feel like walking too far, nor trying something too hard, so I decided to keep it simple and go and stay in the most Eastern part of Rocher des Demoiselles Est, right above the small parking. It's a small sector of the area, but with some nice problems very close to each other.
I warmed with flashing "Basic", more 6C+ than 7A in my opinion, but ideal to wake up the body.

Fontainebleau - Rocher des Demoiselles Est - Basic 7A(6C+)



Then, on the other side of the same boulder, I definitely wanted to try "Atmosphère", which I tried briefly many years ago, but couldn't get out of the small roof. My fingers weren't strong enough to hang on the tiny crimp under the roof and going dynamically left hand from the starting holds seemed to be out of reach.
It turns out that my fingers have gotten stronger since then, because on my first tryout attempt, hanging on the crimp and making the next wasn't a problem. I turned on the camera and sent it immediately after.

Fontainebleau - Rocher des Demoiselles Est - Atmosphère 7A(7A+)



The atmosphere was set, and now that I knew that the first part wasn't too difficult anymore, I stayed on the spot and started working in "Le Retour du Bonobo". Same start as for "Atmosphère", but with a much harder exit on the right. Instead of properly working out the end separately, I gave it goes from the start, thinking that any attempt could be the good one. On my third attempt though, I took a bad unexpected fall and fell with my back, the part just above my tailbone, next to the crashpad, directly onto the small boulder below. It hurt really bad and my first thought was to leave, so I turned off the camera and even had to lie down (on my side) for a moment. Luckily I didn't fall on my tailbone itself and after a short time, when the pain slowly faded away, taken over by adrenalin, I felt lucky that sitting wasn't painful. As I had fallen off the very end "Le Retour du Bonobo", I decided to give it another try anyway. Luckily I didn't fall anymore and was able to finish it then.

Fontainebleau - Rocher des Demoiselles Est - Le Retour du Bonobo 7B

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