Sunday, October 22, 2023

October 22, 2023 - Doing justice to Noisy.

I was hoping to go back to Petit Rempart today to continue with "Mojo Rising (assis)", but that hope dissipated as soon as I woke and noticed how sore my body felt. The three hours of working it yesterday had taken its toll and it didn't make any sense to back today already. Still eager to climb though, I wanted to go somewhere close to home, like the quick drying Justice de Noisy, which kind of limited my choice in boulders. Having done most medium hard problems in the close vicinity, I started looking for some short traverses and ended up at "Mnémotechnique". Bad slopers that required some rebrushing, but not too long and seemingly positive for the fingers. 
Against my expectations, it felt like quite a nice problem, with two tricky parts on very bad slopers, separated by a good jug, allowing for a short rest.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Mnémotechnique 7B



Another traverse that looked quite nice on bleau.info, was "Geppetto par Pinocchio", but when I arrived at the boulder, it just looked too long and I didn't feel like wearing myself down after having done "Mnémotechnique" moments before. The much shorter version though, "Pinocchio (assis droite)" looked really nice and didn't even look a traverse at all. It just follows a very logical crack with underclings for about a meter to then top out at the prow. Definitely worth four stars in my opinion.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Pinocchio (assis droite) 6C+(7A)

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