Sunday, October 8, 2023

October 08, 2023 - Combining betas.

Helen (Dudley) reminded me yesterday that "Wolverine" in Apremon Désert was on my radar. I had only tried a few times, very briefly, because I could never remember any beta videos and no possibility to view any when being there as I have no phone reception. It was actually only yesterday evening when I was looking at some videos, that I noticed the kneebar that everyone was using, a method that never came to me when I was at the boulder. I watched the videos again this morning right before I left home, and tried to remember as much as I could.
It was still early when I arrived at Apremont Désert and as expected, I was the only on there, just how I like it. Unfortunately, I could only remember little parts of the different betas that I watched, but I knew that the kneebar was key and started working around it. Not being sure which knee, left or right, was used, I switched the kneepad from one knee to the other a few times, only to conclude that I needed both knees on different parts of the problem. The beta that I figured out around it, made me arrive at the edge with my wrong hand, but luckily I remembered a video from Nathaleigh, who went feet first to be able to switch hands. Which is what I ended up doing.
I only have one kneepad, and on my attempt to determine on which knee it would be most useful, I suddenly found myself at the edge, my fingers felt slippery, but I went for it, switched hands and topped out with mild despair. 

Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - Wolverine 7C



In the meantime, a big group of about 30 to 40 people had gathered around the big boulder of "Le Pilier du Désert" in the center of the area. Obviously it was a club of some kind and to avoid climbing with a crowd, I decided to leave, but stopped at the boulder of "Obélix" and flashed "Obélix (gauche)" to finish up my session.
Call it superstition or whatever you want, but maybe, just maybe, having my towel back gave me luck ?

Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - Obélix (gauche) 7A(7A+)

2 comments:

  1. Wat een einde van route (de eerste)🤟

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  2. Btw het is Pie. Ik zie nu dat anonymous is dat typt. Ma het ben ik wel. Heb daarnet nog gepost op een eerdere blog. Keep on the good work 👌

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