November 01, 2023 - Patience for the mojo.

Knowing that today is a public holiday here in France, I had been keeping an eye on the weather forecast and saw potential for going back to "Mojo Rising (assis)" and spend a fourth session on it, secretly hoping it would be the last despite enjoying that quiet isolated spot where the boulder is.
My first session trying "Mojo Rising (assis)", was eleven days ago, right after I easily did the standing start. I was able to work out all the moves and even do the whole problem in two overlapping parts. A process that did take more than two hours though.
I came back for my second session last Saturday and reached a new high point, falling off the first move in from the standing start. I was so close, but that almost three hours session had taken its toll, so I left again empty handed, but very pleased with the big progress. I knew it was only a matter of time. 
The day after, last Sunday, I went back for a third session, knowing I would probably be too tired from the day before, but I didn't want to loose any muscle memory. I wasn't able to reach my high point again, but the first and hardest part of the problem was becoming more and more consistent. It gave me a lot of confidence for my next session after a few days of rest.
While having breakfast this morning, I was looking at the rain forecast and noticed that it was forecasted to start raining from about 11h until early afternoon. As I didn't want to take the risk to go in the afternoon and finding the boulder wet, I decided to leave immediately. I arrived at the boulder just before 10h, and it was perfectly dry and with near perfect conditions. I did the standing start on my first attempt as a warmup and the friction was amazingly good. Unfortunately, drops started falling, meaning the rain started much earlier than predicted, but as it only felt like some drops, I didn't worry about it too much. After a few attempts, I managed to reach my high point again, didn't slip off the right hand crimp and calmly prepared for the far move to the high sloper. I had done the top part easily barely fifteen minutes ago and expected it to be only a formality. I went for the sloper and slid off! Having stayed under the overhang, I didn't realize how much of rain drops had already fallen out of the sky and had made the slopers of the top part of the boulder soaking wet.
I had two choices; go home and come back later in the afternoon, or wait it out and try to keep the holds of the first part dry using two towels I had with me. I chose the second option and decided to be patient, knowing that the rain shouldn't last too long. 
more than an hour and a half later, it seemed liked the rain had finally stopped and I went up the other side of the boulder to dry the top part. Both towels were soaking wet when I was finished, but at least the top part was climbable again and somehow, the friction on the very bad sloper left hand at the first part, felt better than before.
Seventeen minutes later, I topped it out! (I know it was seventeen minutes, because my Sony camera creates a new file on the memory card every seventeen minutes or every 2GB).

"Mojo Rising (assis)" definitely felt like one of the hardest problems that I ever did in the forest up to now. It took me 4 sessions and maybe 50 attempts or more. Personally, I would say this is rather 8A, but as usual, every boulder feels different for everyone.

Fontainebleau - Petit Rempart - Mojo Rising (assis) 7C(7C+)

If anyone knows how to prevent a Sony camera from creating a new .MTS video file on the memory card every 2 GB or about every 17 minutes (which causes a glitch each time), please let me know. It's a Sony HDR-CX405. It sucks when it happens right into a successful ascent.