Saturday, September 3, 2022

September 03, 2022 - Back to the slaughter house.

Last weekend it didn't feel good to leave "Cadeau pour un Pote" in Videlles l'Abattoir undone despite being able to do all the moves. I was determined to back soon, convinced that I would be able to finish it when being fresh instead of near the end of a session. This morning, it was a bit of risk to go back to that shady spot after yesterday's and last night's rain, but I took my chances and went anyway. With some joy, I found the boulder dry and walked back to the car to get a second crashpad.
I still remembered the moves and on my first warmup attempt, made it passed the morpho crux, the far move to the small two finger pocket left hand, took the bad pinch, was able to place  my right foot, went for the good hold on the left, crossing over with the right hand, and ... missed it. I didn't feel too bad about it, because for a first attempt it was definitely good and I figured it would probably go down soon. The latter turned out to be an overstatement.
For the next hour and a half or so, I kept on failing on the crux move. The pocket suddenly seemed out of reach again, just like last week. It started to become frustrating, and I was forced to take longer breaks in between attempts to keep the friction and spare my right arm. Then suddenly, it clicked, I passed the crux again and stuck the final move to the good hold. It was a great relief!
This definitely felt harder than most of the other 297 7B's that I did by now. Maybe it's due to the morpho aspect of it, but "Cadeau pour un Pote" could very well be 7B+ if you ask me.

Fontainebleau - Videlles l'Abattoir - Cadeau pour un Pote 7B

No comments:

Post a Comment