Sunday, September 4, 2022

September 04, 2022 - Roudor.

I hadn't planned to go back again to Videlles 'lAbattoir today, but as I trimmed a lot in the garden yesterday afternoon, I had to take the bags with trimmings to the green waste disposal in Moigny-sur-Ecole. Videlles being next to it and desiring a solitary climb, I figured it was an obvious choice. I hadn't been to the boulder with "Roudor" yet, but decided to spend some time looking for it and hopefully do some attempts.
The forest in Videlles is beautiful and peaceful and while enjoying the walk uphill, I noticed the boulder suddenly at about ten meters from the path. Expecting it closer to the top of the hill, it was a pleasant coincidence that I happened to look in the boulder's direction.
Carefully inspecting the holds, I noticed that the starting hold for the left hand broke some time ago. I didn't know how it looked like before the break, but it definitely looked like a substantial piece had broken off and I was wondering that maybe that was the reason why all of the three registered repeaters rated it 7B+ instead of the originally proposed 7B. Looking at the other hard looking holds, I reasoned that the best approach would be to work out the moves separately, which turned out to be a good decision. It took some time before I was able to lift my butt off the ground, let alone doing the first move to a far small crimp. Even when I was finally able to it, it wasn't a move that I could every time, it had to be dead on and there was no margin for correction.
For the other moves, it took a while before I even could find a possible working method, and I came to realize that every move from beginning to end was hard. Only after I was finally able to do the problem in two overlapping parts, I started making real attempts from the start.

It was a big fight and a hard battle and I came close to giving up when my skin started to burn and felt more painful after each attempt, but then suddenly, it all came together. I was glad that I had also practiced the topout of "Roudor", because it isn't over until it's completely over with this one.
Taking a needed and deserved break after topping out, I thought about it and I have to agree with the previous repeaters for 100%. This is definitely harder than 7B, possibly even hard edge 7B+!

Fontainebleau - Videlles l'Abattoir - Roudor 7B+(7B)

No comments:

Post a Comment