Sunday, March 13, 2022

March 13, 2022 - A long quick one.

The sun was out when I woke up this morning, but as my weather app predicted a 50% chance of rain starting at 11h, I sent a text message to Jan (Gorrebeeck) that I was going for what I expected to be a very quick and probably short climb on the quick drying and close to home boulder of "La Voie Active" in Mont Pivot. Jan and Gina quickly finished their coffee and without having breakfast, they joined at the boulder about ten minutes after I had arrived.
To warmup, I made a quick repeat of "L'Imparfait du Subversif (direct)", almost immediately followed by Jan. Soon after, I repeated "L'Imparfait du Subversif" itself with relative ease. Having spent so much time on this boulder in the past, helps with the muscle memory apparently.
In the meantime, we were joined by two other climbers, Diana and Mikael (Uponen), respectively from Germany and Finland, who also had the good idea of coming to this quick drying boulder featuring many problems. A perfect little playground. While the others were still working on "L'Imparfait du Subversif", Mikael brought my attention to another still unpublished variant on "La Voie Active", with an exit to the right of the arete, using a crimp right hand. Thanks to the muscle memory, I didn't need to work out the first part of the problem, so it didn't take very long to do that unpublished line. 
With so many variants on this boulder, it's hard to believe that this hasn't been done before, but being unpublished and without any further information to be found, I named it "La Voie Active (droite)". It felt like 7A, but the others, who didn't have enough time to finish it due to rain making the boulder wet, it might as well be 7A+. Hence the proposed grade of 7A(7A+).

Fontainebleau - Mont Pivot - La Voie Active (droite) 7A(7A+)



It was well past the 11h mark and besides a few drops, it only really started raining around 13h. As the boulder was wet, I showed Jan the other boulder with "Le Passeur" and "Stalker". "Stalker" is what they sometimes call a 'one-move wonder' and even though I have to disagree with it being a wonder, the grade is completely based on the very first move where the hardest part is to get your butt off the ground. Once that first move is done, there is nothing hard to it anymore.
I had briefly tried "Stalker" a couple of times before, but as I never get my ass off the ground, I gave up on it pretty quickly. It seemed to be something that Jan liked, and after seeing him making progress, I decided to try along. Motivating each other helped and it wasn't after very long that Jan was able to do the move and top it out. I followed minutes after him, but not before I tore a big chunk of skin out of my right hand, leaving some blood stains on the holds. Jan did it a second time right after I had my topout.
What I thought would be a quick short session, could not be less true. We ended our session after four hours of climbing, when it really started too much.

Fontainebleau - Mont Pivot - Stalker 7C

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