Wednesday, October 13, 2021

October 13, 2021 - Bridging the gap.

A new variant with yet another but logical exit on the boulder of "Stargate" in Justice de Noisy has been published earlier this week. Being already very familiar with that boulder, I took some time after work to be able to destress and try "Golden Gate".
With about 12°C, it wasn't very cold, but the air was dry and the friction felt great. Using an easier method than in my videos of "Stargate" for the first part of the problem, I was able to quite easily send it on my first attempt. 

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Golden Gate 7A+(7B)



Being done so quickly with "Golden Gate", I still had some time left before the dark, but not enough to walk to the back end of the area and try something there. That's when I came up with trying "Fanny Chipie" on the first boulder that was ever published in this area many years ago. I had noticed that there was another more direct version now, being a still higher, but straight up dyno from the undercling. Most of the time these kind of dynos seem to suit me quite well.
It's a huge gap though, at least my full body length, between the undercling and the top, so I had to use everything I had in my legs to bridge it. To my surprise, it didn't take me very long to make it.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Fanny Chipie 7B+(7B)

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