Saturday, June 6, 2020

June 06, 2020 - To be confirmed. *updated*

It rained until deep in the night and this morning everything was still wet. By 11h am though it started to look like it would be possible to find some dry boulders. I didn't want to go far though and the conditions weren't in favor to try anything too hard, so I stayed close to home and went to new what has now become Justice de Noisy area. It used to be a remote part of Roche aux Sabots Sud with only a couple boulders, like the one with "Hallelujah", but Tony (Fouchereau) and Thierry (Vasseur) have opened many more boulders on that side of the hill now. Justice de Noisy features a total of 77 boulders now, each with several problems and variations.
There is already a topo published on bleau.info (https://bleau.info/topos/topo1228.html), but it only has 2 of the 77 boulders published at the moment; the one with "Fanny Chippie" and the one with "Hallelujah". I decided though to go and check out some of the others around "Hallelujah" already.

I started with problem '4e' on the topo, on the backside of the boulder of "Hallelujah" and did what seemed the most logical. However, it doesn't really fit with the description that I was given later today.
This is to be confirmed what it is that I did exactly. It seemed that I did the ending of a 7A traverse, but what I did, felt like at least 7A on itself, maybe even 7A+.
Opened by Tony and Thierry, so will ask confirmation from them.

*** UPDATE: apparently it is called "Envoyé Spatial" and proposed as 7C(7B+) ***

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Envoyé Spatial 7C(7B+)




In front of and below "Hallelujah", on boulder 5 on the topo, I easily did the standing start, "Armageddon Numérique (debout)", but couldn't get through its sitstart which is supposed to be 7A.
Opened by Eric Allayaud and rebrushed by Tony.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Armageddon Numérique (debout) 6A




On boulder 6, I did a few problems, starting with the quite easy "Entre Deux Eau (direct)".
Opened by Tony and Thierry.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Entre Deux Eau (direct) 6C+(7A)




The problem about one metre to the right of "Enntre Deux Eau", has a much harder start and requires some good pulling on the fingers.
"Entre Deux Os" is also opened by Tony and Thierry.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Entre Deux Os 7A(7A+)




Finally, not sure if this has been done already or not, I did a variation that I called "De l'Os à l'Eau" for now, and gave it 7A+ as that's what it felt like on that moment.
Start in "Entre Deux Os", traverse low to the left and finish in "Entre Deux Eau".

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - De l'Os à l'Eau 7A+




Basically, all to be confirmed, so subject to change.

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