June 30, 2019 - (Un)conventional.

With temperatures above 40°C nearly every day this week, it was too hot to even think of climbing anything. The mornings could have worked out, but with still 23°C during the night, the boulders didn't cool down and I had to work anyway.  The few times I did try to climb, it was too hot to finish anything.
Finally today was supposed to be less hot, but still the thermometer came close to 40 again in the afternoon. This morning however, it took a little longer before the heat returned, and I used the opportunity to go to Gorge aux Châts for a climb ... in the shade.
I had tried "Phase Finale" for the first time not long ago, and I could do all the moves separately and did the problem in two parts, it was just a matter of linking it. On top of that, the hardest part being under a shady roof was ideal for today.

"Phase Finale" starts with a beautiful, but very hard pinch for the left hand and a small crimp for the right. Lift up, take another sidepull crimp further right with the right hand and dyno from that crimp and the hard pinch to a sloper over the edge of the roof. From there it's only a 6A, but still one where you have to keep focussed.
While working on it again this morning, I managed to do an unconventional start first and decided to keep and publish a video of it because it felt worth it.
Start the same as "Phase Finale", with the feet in the back of the roof, the left hand on the hard pinch, but take whatever you can already reach with the right hand.
In my case, I can already reach the second crimp on the right from that position, basically skipping the first move of the original problem. Still hard enough for a hard 7B in my opinion.

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - Phase Finale (sans convention) 7B

Not very long after, but with some breaks in between, I also managed finish it from the original, conventional start too. Adding that extra move to it, does make it substantially harder.
That pinch is so nice that the whole problem got four stars from me on bleau.info. Up to now I seem to be the only registered repeater, but "Phase Finale" definitely deserves more.

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - Phase Finale 7C