Thursday, June 20, 2019

June 20, 2019 - In a hurry.

Last Sunday, when I did "La Pomme (assis)" in J.A. Martin, I had also started trying "L'Homme Pressé" two metres to the left of it. I didn't have enough skin nor power left in me though, to be able to pull enough on that hard right pinch and make the next dynamic move.
In a way, it's funny how "L'Homme Pressé" can be translated into "the man in a hurry", because I kind of was in a hurry when I wanted to go out for a quick climb after work this evening.

"L'Homme Pressé" basically comes down to one very hard move after pulling up with a bad slopey crimp left hand and a bad slopey pinch right hand.
Hard to lift your ass, even harder to get into position and go for the far slopey hold.
After almost an hour of trying, I really had to hurry and only had time for one last attempt, but suddenly I stuck the dynamic move. I had only tried the next move once separately out of curiosity, and I didn't make it then, so it took some effort to keep calm and match with the right hand on a crimp. From there I thought it was over and simply mantling up, but it wasn't over yet, far from it.
I had to use my right thumb to not balance out when trying to get my leg from under the overhang, and it felt like I could still fall out any moment. The relief was great when I placed my second foot high up and found my balance again.
You better don't be in a hurry for that topout.

Fontainebleau - J.A. Martin - L'Homme Pressé 7C(7B+)


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