Sunday, August 26, 2018

August 26, 2018 - What a week!

It was a hell of a workweek the past week!
The company I work for has been bought by another even bigger company, and on Tuesday was the first day of the integration of part our systems into theirs.
As I was directly involved in parts of that integration, it mean long working days until colleagues based in the United States could take over.
This was repeated until Friday, when things calmed down and were getting into place, but on Thursday evening, when I weighed myself, I was shocked to see that I had lost almost four pounds on barely three days.
Considering that I have a desk job and most of my work was done on remote systems in a datacenter in The Netherlands or in the Cloud, I wasn't moving around a lot, so the loss of weight could only be explained by stress.

On Friday evening I was finally able to relax and went for a short climb, but already after my attempt on "Bioéthique" in Roche aux Sabots Sud, I was exhausted and felt extremely weak so the climbing didn't take long.
Saturday morning I had to drive to Belgium, but I was already back again just before noon today.
My body felt better and there was plenty of time for going back to "Bioéthique", but I felt tired from the drive, so I drank a coffee before leaving to Roche aux Sabots Sud again.

It was a tremendous difference as compared to Friday evening.
The hard part under the roof was still a bit pumpy and the last move before the hard mantle needed some working out, but all in all it didn't take long before I stood on top of "Bioéthique".
Another very sweet problem, but with the start under the roof, it comes closer to 7B in my opinion. Quite morpho moves too.

Fontainebleau - Roche aux Sabots Sud - Bioéthique 7A+




"Zen Mes Doigts" starts like "Zen", but exits with the arete left of "Bioéthique", good for some very nice moves up to the arete, that I was able to work out, but by that time, the still higher rising sun was directly in my eyes when coming with my head above the boulder, making it impossible to see anything to use to mantle out.
I will try to come back soon for this one!

I found more shade under the boulder of the recently opened "Ashtanga", at barely 20m from the "Zen" boulder.
A lowball boulder with a small roof, featuring several problems, out of which "Ashtanga", which I had briefly tried on one of my previous visits, but the slopers under the roof were in too bad shape to make some realistic attempts.

Today was much different, and somehow, the energy kept on coming. Combined with the motivation I had in me, I was able to cruise through the first part of the problem soon, but then came a morpho move that took a while before I had figured out the correct distance.
Last, but not least, letting go of my right hand without swinging too far and falling off, needed a small dose of luck to successfully finish it off.
"Ashtanga" is much nicer than it looks at first, but those who want to try it should hurry before the wet periods come back. This one will most likely dry very slowly.

Fontainebleau - Roche aux Sabots Sud - Ashtanga 7B+


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