Early this morning, when I started trying "La Résilience" on the "Symbiose" boulder in what is now classified as 95.2 Ouest, I could notice after a few attempts that the slopey pinch for the right hand started to show dark humid smears from my sweaty fingertips.
After losing so much skin the day before, my fingertips tend to be very sweaty and even magnesia doesn't help for long then.
It quickly became clear that I shouldn't set the bar too high if I wanted to top something out today, so I left "La Résilience" and went uphill to find "Ex-Traction" behind and slightly left of the boulder with "Tentation".
Even though the start under the overhang was nicely shaded, the mantle into the slab above was not, on the contrary.
I flashed it, but the crimp in the slab had cut deep into my skin and it occurred to me that I had forgotten use the arete on the right for topping out.
As "Extraction (direct)" has a slightly different start, it wasn't that what I had done neither.
I simply called it "Ex-Traction (sans l'arete)" of which the mantle into the slab is a bit more difficult than the original with the arete, and is a bit scary too because of the high chance that one of the hands slips away, resulting in a potential smack of your face against the boulder.
Fontainebleau - 95.2 Ouest - Ex-Traction (sans l'arete) 7A+
Even though it felt an unnatural move to reach for the arete on the right out of the position I was in, once I had it, coming into the slab was easier than without it.
That same crimp cut even more through my skin, luckily I did this one also on my first attempt.
That same crimp cut even more through my skin, luckily I did this one also on my first attempt.
Fontainebleau - 95.2 Ouest - Ex-Traction 7A(7A+)
My youngest son, Noah (5y), is fond of climbing too and of course looks up to me for it.
Big was his joy when I bought and gave him his first pair of real climbing shoes, and I had promised to take him climbing in the afternoon so he could try them out.
He was proud as a peacock and was even more motivated when I told I would make a small video of his climbing.
We went to the white children circuit of Roche aux Sabots where he climbed one boulder after the other, stopping only briefly to have a couple sips from his red water bottle (same as mine of course).
This lasted for almost an hour and a half and he could have climbed even more, but I noticed that he started to get tired after all and was almost out of skin, just like me.
Big was his joy when I bought and gave him his first pair of real climbing shoes, and I had promised to take him climbing in the afternoon so he could try them out.
He was proud as a peacock and was even more motivated when I told I would make a small video of his climbing.
We went to the white children circuit of Roche aux Sabots where he climbed one boulder after the other, stopping only briefly to have a couple sips from his red water bottle (same as mine of course).
This lasted for almost an hour and a half and he could have climbed even more, but I noticed that he started to get tired after all and was almost out of skin, just like me.
Fontainebleau - Roche aux Sabots - Blanc Enfants
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