Saturday, June 24, 2023

June 24, 2023 - Hot, morpho and a hard mantle.

After watching my son's school spectacles, attending the school feast, working in the garden, and having a swim in the pool, I had some time to go for a climb around the hottest time of the day. Aiming for shade, I drove to Buthiers Nord to either try "L'Elu" or "Blozone". There was only one other climber and as he had the intention of trying "Blozone", I decided to go for "L'Elu". I had tried "L'Elu" very briefly on all my other handful of visits to Buthiers Nord, only to every time quickly conclude that I was trying a wrong method or it being way too morpho. There is a video posted now on bleau.info, and it seemed that the same method was used as the one that I had in mind. According to his profile on bleau.info, the climber in the video is 15cm taller than I am, so I was certain that it probably was going to be too morpho for me.
I focused on trying the crux and on my first few attempts, it indeed did seem to be way too morpho for me, but after improving my technique and changing minor details, I did end up suddenly doing the crux, and got to the edge of the more or less 35° overhanging face of the boulder. Knowing that the moves from the sitstart aren't hard, I turned on the camera and went for a real attempt from the start. I was able to immediately get to the edge again, but didn't expect the topout to be so slopey, sandy and covered with pine needles. I hung on though and swung my left foot over the edge to start the mantle. It felt like I could fall off any second, but I managed to push through and reach a far and better hold, enough to pull myself on.

Fontainebleau - Buthiers Nord - L'Elu 7B+(7C)

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