Thursday, April 13, 2023

April 13, 2023 - Licking wounds in vain.

I was delighted to see a new boulder in Roche aux Sabots having been published this evening and with its quick and easy access from home, it made me want to go for a short climb after dinner and give it a try. Upon arrival at the boulder, I realized that it was one that I had thought about cleaning when I did "La Soupe Cosmique" right next to it back in 2018. I had forgotten about it of course, but I was glad that someone else did.
When looking at the boulder from the ground, it didn't look very difficult, but when I got at the slopers, I was quite surprised with how bad they actually are and how hard the mantle was going to be. Nothing but very bad slopers, a very bad vertical slopey crimp and an even worse slopey mono crimp. It was a fight, but I did end up keeping the friction long enough and finally get over my tipping point and top out. A very nice addition to this oh so popular area.

Fontainebleau - Roche aux Sabots - Vip'Air 7B+



The forest is still licking its wounds after the extremely busy Easter weekend and got some help from the two days of rain we had, but I was amazed and honestly disgusted with how much magnesium was still and again left behind on way too many holds and mostly easy problems and holds. Clearly, still way too many climbers don't clean the holds after climbing. I'm ashamed for them.

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