It had been dry the whole week and it was the first time that we found the nice roof boulder of "The Enterprise" dry. With quite positive holds and a crux in the first part of the problem, it was a good one to warm up in and give our bodies a wake up call. After working out the crux, I was able to send it quite fast, and it looked like Pieter was going to do the same, but unfortunately he fell off the very last move due to exhaustion. I tried to motivate him to have a rest and try again, but he didn't want to be shut down at the warm up and proposed to go the next boulder.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Sanglier - The Enterprise 7A(7A+)
We found "Day of Tentacle" to be dry as well, but it was dirty and covered with grainy moss. Despite a long effort trying to get it as clean as possible, our hands got dirty after each attempt and made the friction bad to almost non existent. We agreed that it was no use to keep on trying and a good rebrushing with a steel brush would be required to make this actually climbable again. I have several steel brushes in the car, but it made more sense to come back on a rainy day and brush it then.
On our way up the small chaos on the Southern hill, I really wanted to try "La Catapulte" for which Pieter passed because it involves a huge two meter dyno, not his style nor his favorite move.
I expected it to give me more trouble, but surprisingly only needed three attempts to make it up the boulder. It was long ago that I did such a dyno and it was quite fun to do this one.
On our way up the small chaos on the Southern hill, I really wanted to try "La Catapulte" for which Pieter passed because it involves a huge two meter dyno, not his style nor his favorite move.
I expected it to give me more trouble, but surprisingly only needed three attempts to make it up the boulder. It was long ago that I did such a dyno and it was quite fun to do this one.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Sanglier - La Catapulte 7A(7B)
Pieter was able to finish "Tics Tocs" fast, on his third attempt. As I had done the problems on that boulder already, I used the occasion to rest and keep my energy for "Spidercochon (droite)". With the split in my right index finger not fully healed yet, I deliberately kept this one for last, knowing it involves a tiny very sharp crimp for the right hand for the crux move.
Last time I tried "Spidercochon (droite)" I fell several times while on the crux move going from the tiny crimp to the arete far right and higher up, despite being able to touch it every time. This time, I was able to stick the crux move, but the last move requires a lot of balance and delicate moving, which I didn't expect and still fell off after the crux. The attempt after that, I felt the crimp cutting deep in my finger and opening the split in my right index finger. The cut was even deeper than two weeks ago and I was forced to quit. Despite that, it was a good session with yet another step further. Anyway, it was time to split after all.
Last time I tried "Spidercochon (droite)" I fell several times while on the crux move going from the tiny crimp to the arete far right and higher up, despite being able to touch it every time. This time, I was able to stick the crux move, but the last move requires a lot of balance and delicate moving, which I didn't expect and still fell off after the crux. The attempt after that, I felt the crimp cutting deep in my finger and opening the split in my right index finger. The cut was even deeper than two weeks ago and I was forced to quit. Despite that, it was a good session with yet another step further. Anyway, it was time to split after all.
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