I met Pieter at the small parking of Gorge aux Châts early in the morning, and despite being 4°C, it felt much colder. We started with trying "Rififi" in the Eastern part of the area. Even though I was able to stick the first move a few times, my legs apparently aren't long enough for my right foot to remain on the foothold and I always cut loose after making the move. At least, it didn't seem impossible anymore for climbers of mine and Pieter's height. I was motivated to try more, but after cutting a split in my right index finger, we had to try something else. Not having much time left, we walked to the bottom of the hill to try "Arcenic" which I had tried once long ago, but didn't dare to do the topout, being alone by myself. With a spotter like Pieter, I knew that there would be better chance.
It didn't take Pieter long to get to the topout, but he chickened out a few times and jumped off. I had much more trouble than last time and couldn't even get to the part where Pieter got stuck several times. Then out of the blue Pieter came up with another method for the first part and topped all the way out. It was a beautiful method, totally my style and it allowed me to top out immediately after Pieter. It felt really cold and I was honestly glad that it was time for me to go back home.
Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts Est - Arcenic 7A
This morning, being only -3°C, it was even colder than yesterday, but this time the sky was clear and the sun was out. I had agreed to meet go with Pieter to Apremont Portes du Désert, mainly to try "Elementary", which we both tried about a year ago or something and we got quite close. Being with only really bad slopers, the cold temperature of today was more than welcome.
Arriving on the parking, it was a very pleasant surprise to see that Paul (Van Daele) and his girlfriend were coming with us.
We warmed up in the low roof of "Dégazage" and all topped it out relatively quickly.
Arriving on the parking, it was a very pleasant surprise to see that Paul (Van Daele) and his girlfriend were coming with us.
We warmed up in the low roof of "Dégazage" and all topped it out relatively quickly.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Portes du Désert - Dégazage 7A+
Pieter quickly seemed to remember the method we used last time for "Elementary", but we were all stuck at the topout, no holds, nothing but really bad slopers. We spent a lot of time and many attempts, but all in vain, until I decided to try something slightly different at the end. This time, I got into reach of the final hold, touched it, but fell off after my foot slipped away. Many attempts followed, and when I had the impression that I couldn't even reach where I got the first time, I decided to make a small change in foot placement at the end. It seemed to have been the trick, because I suddenly topped out, making it even look quite easy. I had reached my goal of the day.
A little later, using the new beta, Paul was able to top out as well.
Pieter got closer and closer, but had spent so many attempts and had reached the point being out of energy and he decided to give up. It will be next time for him.
A little later, using the new beta, Paul was able to top out as well.
Pieter got closer and closer, but had spent so many attempts and had reached the point being out of energy and he decided to give up. It will be next time for him.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Portes du Désert - Elementary 7C
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