Sunday, January 15, 2023

January 15, 2023 - Floating on the wind.

It rained very hard last evening and night, but contrary to what was forecasted a couple of day ago, there was a blue sky this morning and a heavy wind did a good job to dry the previously soaking wet surroundings outside. I was patient and gave it some more time to dry and left early afternoon to Justice de Noisy, knowing that it dries quickly, especially with the direction that the heavy wind was coming from. It was quite warm in the sun though and for a moment I feared condensation, but there was none. The boulders were nice and dry.
I don't have a lot of straight ups left to do in the area, but the nice looking "Virgule Flottante (assis)" was one of them and almost begging me to try it. I had done the standing start in March of last year, but wasn't able to figure out how to come up from the sit. Determined to solve the problem, I gave it time and looked for all possible options. I finally found a not so obvious method for the first two moves by coming up from the ground and reaching towards a small opening between the pedestal and the floating boulder on top of it, after which it becomes a hand jam and then take the very bad slopey undercling.
As soon as I got the hang it, it didn't take very long to come to a send, but even though the boulder was dry and I had checked the top, I hadn't noticed some wet moss that filled up the small better crack on the top. It made the mantle harder than I remembered from the standing start and way more sketchy. I could have still fallen off any moment until I finally rolled on to very top.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Virgule Flottante (assis) 7B+(7B)

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