Friday, January 13, 2023

January 13, 2023 - The floor is lava.

According to the weather forecast, today was going to be the only dry day of the week, so I had taken the day off work, hoping to get a piece of the pie. I went back to Rocher des Demoiselles hoping to get away with "L'Eveil du Sphinx (assis)", in which I had fallen off the last move several times on my previous visit to the area. The conditions near the base of the hill weren't very good though, and when I couldn't even do the standing start, I wisely packed up and looked for another boulder in better conditions.
In the other part of the area, higher up the hill and more open, I was lucky to find "Eruption" in good condition. The fairly strong wind passed right through the small tunnel where the roof of the boulder is and had dried everything well.
Bart Van Raaij's method, reaching for a far sloper left hand looked like the most logic, but the hold seemed to have broken off and there was a small layer of sand on it that just kept coming back after wiping it off. I had no choice but to come up with another method, but it was one that required a huge swing coming from a completely stretched position under the roof. When I worked out that swing separately, I flew off multiple times, but after some tweaking, I came closer and closer to holding it.
I slightly dabbed the boulder behind me when I was able to hold it the first time, but decided to continue on to so I could do the end as well. I took a small break and sent it again, but this time without touching the small boulder.

Fontainebleau - Rocher des Demoiselles - Eruption 7C(7C+)

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