Wednesday, February 2, 2022

February 02, 2022 - Shooting a Blanco.

Pun intended.

I knew that I had a lot of vacation days accumulated on my work's Time Savings Account, but I didn't realize that it was a total of 76 days that I had saved there. It was definitely time to start using them, so I got approval to be off work every Wednesday for the next 15 weeks, starting with today.
The weather forecast didn't look too bad for today, but when I was driving to Rocher Saint-Germain, a drizzly rain shower made everything wet. I walked around the area, but it didn't look like it was going to be dry again soon. Due to its immense popularity I don't often go to the Cuvier Rempart area, but being a Wednesday and being nearby, I decided to try my chance there. After all, it is known to dry quickly there.
Of course, it had rained there as well, so I walked on to the small area of Petit Rempart to have a look at some of the new boulders that were recently opened by Manuel Marquès. I didn't get further than the first boulder that I found, the small, but pretty nice and apparently very quick drying "Blanco". At least the left side dries very quickly. The right side required a lot of towel drying and especially patience.
I was able to work out all of the moves separately, but it was a time consuming process with humid slopers on the right side. The boulder felt better and better with each attempt though and by the time I had done all the separate moves, it was dry enough to give it some real attempts and setup the camera.
Being a short, steep overhanging prow with tense compression moves on bad slopers and the possibility to use toehooks on both sides, "Blanco" fits my style pretty well. It was well worth the wait.

Fontainebleau - Petit Rempart - Blanco 7B

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