Tuesday, September 12, 2017

September 12, 2017 - Proof of concept.

I had a short but nice evening session in Apremont Ouest.
The temperature's dropping, the wind made the air dry and I was all alone in the area.
It was a good moment to try "Sitting Bull". The one other time that I wanted to try it, I couldn't even get my ass off the ground.

Somehow, this time I didn't have much problems with it, but I soon realised that the actual crux for the original direct exit, is the mantle up.
I had seen more videos, however, of climbers topping out more to the right, and apparently on bleau.info the description mentions that the topout on the right is 7B, so I decided to go for that one instead. I didn't want to loose too much time figuring out the direct mantle up.

I haven't registered my ascent on bleau.info yet, but I have asked to create a separate page for the right exit version.
Registering my ascent on the original page and grading it 7B would do injustice to the direct 7C(7B+) version and grading it 7B+(7C) would do injustice to myself, so I think a separate page would be more logical.
Anyway, the exit on the right feels more like a 7B to me.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Ouest - Sitting Bull 7C(7B+)




With the time I had left, I wanted to try "Concept" again lower down the hill.
I had tried "Concept" quite a few times already, but always gave up fast because I couldn't find a way to move in it.
Also this time I really had some trouble finding the good body position and only made it just barely at the end.

The video can be played by the way. Youtube did something wrong when processing the thumbnail selection.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Ouest - Concept 7A


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