Sunday, September 10, 2017

September 10, 2017 - An unexpected finish.

Due to other priorities in the morning, it was already 13h when I parked at Franchard Isatis, and the conditions still looked pretty bad.
The weather wasn't as good as predicted and the skies stayed grey almost all day long, with some occasional drops of rain here and there.
Despite that, it was quite crowded, so I walked straight to the back of the area where I was all alone.

I tried some problems here and there, mostly had to give up due to too awful conditions, but ended up flashing "La Grisaille (direct)", which I can't give more than 6C(6C+). It went way too easy for 7A in my opionion.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Isatis - La Grisaille (direct) 7A




Being fed up with the bad conditions up there, I decided to make my way back to Franchard Hautes Plaines to check out the state of "Jambe de Bois", in which I have already spent at least three good sessions.
On my way, a Belgian from Liège who lives in Paris, asked me the way to "Cannonball".
As I was going to pass by that boulder anyway, I offered to bring him there.
Zachariah (I hope I spell this correctly) is his name, but "Zac" is easier.

We both started trying the original version, "Cannonball", at first, but when I noticed that I wasn't coming close enough, I switched to its easier version "Cannonball (droite)".
I had done it already several times, but this is just a fun dyno and always nice to try.
Still, it took me quite some tries before an attempt was successful again.
I still watched Zac for a while, saw him coming really close to sticking the dyno, but greeted him friendly again and continued my way to "Jambe de Bois".

Fontainebleau - Franchard Isatis - Cannonball (droite) 7A+(7A) (repeat)




To my pleasant surprise, the conditions on "Jambe de Bois" were not bad at all and when I gave it a first try, the surprise was even more pleasant when I noticed that the far dynamic move to the right was going much better than ever, and I started to hope for success.
From all the sessions that I already worked in it, I had never been able to stick that move yet and I knew that if I would do that one, my chances were high for finishing it.

After a few tries, I suddenly stuck the move and I got nervous.
I tried to focus, but when I was preparing for the last move, I had to think of a video from Ivan (Moreels), in which he fell off the last move and I hoped it wasn't going to happen to me.
My focus was so far gone though, that it did.

Luckily, after a short break, I was able to do the move again and work my way to the top, even though just barely.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Hautes Plaines - Jambe de Bois 7B+(7B)




On my way back I passed by "Cannonball" again, but Zac had already left.
I truly hope that he was able to finish it!

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