Tuesday, January 19, 2016

January 19, 2016 - About a song.

I have another song in my mind, but I will not say which one. I'm pretty sure that when you have finished reading, you will have found out.

The workload at work is piling up again and knowing that tomorrow and Thursday I will be 450 km away for work, obliged me to go for a short climbing session to end the day.
Nothing beats the peace and quiet of the forest on a regular evening of the week to be able to completely disconnect and gather some renewed energy.
I always come home being a different person then, feeling relaxed.

It started off this evening with some attempts in "Sur le Fil (retour-aller)" but the cold made me give up quite quickly. It traverses first about 7m to the left, then comes back the same 7m and goes up.
Doing all these moves and keeping my bare hands on such cold rock for that long made them so cold, that by the time I had to start coming back, I couldn't feel my fingers anymore.
The slopers require crisp conditions, but for me it may be a little warmer.

So I moved up the hill to try "La Théorie des Plats" another traverse, but shorter, on (as you guess by the name of it) slopers (des plats).
An easy sitstart, about 3,5m traverse to the left with an exit just past the arete. Sounds easy, looks easy and was in the end not difficult, but thanks to the conditions.
It felt like 6C+(6C) today, but I can very well imagine it being (soft) 7A in less good conditions.

Fontainebleau - J.A. Martin - La Théorie des Plats 7A(6C+)




A little further up the hill, near "Le Toit du Ninja Blanc", are some more recently opened problems. One of them is "Le Bout du Bambou". A 7A traverse with the crux at the topout.
It sitstarts left, traverses about 4m to the right and then it tops out with a physical (morpho for some) move upwards.
Twice I fell out at the very last move and I had to give up because it took too much energy from me. It was getting dark anyway.
I tried to walk normal when going back to the car, because all this traversing left and right almost made me move like an Egyptian.

1 comment:

  1. I have an idea about the song but don't want to bias the other readers :-)

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